We would like to thank Tri-tronics and Sport DOG for their assistance.
I would like to thank everyone who called and e-mailed us this week to make sure we survived the hurricane. We are doing fine.
This donation will be on all sales made online starting today and running through midnight on Monday. This is a great chance to get the training gear that you need for the coming season and help out some folks in desperate need.
If you don't need any gear right now, be sure to donate anything you can to the Salvation Army and Red Cross
We would like to thank Tri-tronics and Sport DOG in their assistance in our small part of the relief effort.
Place your order on-line at http://www.gundogsupply.com, by fax at 1-601-324-6011, or call us at 1-800-624-6378. We will be glad to help you if you have any questions. Give me a call or drop me an email.
We appreciate your business and friendship!
Steve Snell & the Snell Family
Gun Dog Supply
Serving Hunting and Field Dog Owners Since 1972
http://www.gundogsupply.com
312 Industrial Park Rd.
Starkville, Mississippi USA
1-800-624-6378
1-662-324-2410
P.S. You're on our INTERNET SPECIALS list of friends
& customers. If you don't want to get e-mail from us,
simply give us a holler and we'll take care of it!
![]() | Care Instructions for Bizzy Beds |
Innovation and Animal protection is a driving force at Mud River. Our pursuit of superior product performance will only enhance the Human and Animal relationship. Keeping with our quest for your dog's well-being, we have loaded our kennel covers with a wealth of health benefits. The chosen material is a 2 ply infused 1200D that has a Water-Resistant coating for protection in foul and unpredictable weather. Worry not -- when the mercury drops the microlite 3 insulation will supply thermal bliss. You will also find that we have placed a tough and tumble rubber mesh over each window to ensure air is dispensed properly and to secure fit while running 70. While the need for gear is essential you will find stash pockets in all the right locations. The industrial-grade bottom was not an afterthought, built to withstand years of abrasion.]]>
Innovation and Animal protection is a driving force at Mud River. Our pursuit of superior product performance will only enhance the Human and Animal relationship. Keeping with our quest for your dog's well-being, we have loaded our kennel covers with a wealth of health benefits. The chosen material is a 2 ply infused 1200D that has a Water-Resistant coating for protection in foul and unpredictable weather. Worry not -- when the mercury drops the microlite 3 insulation will supply thermal bliss. You will also find that we have placed a tough and tumble rubber mesh over each window to ensure air is dispensed properly and to secure fit while running 70. While the need for gear is essential you will find stash pockets in all the right locations. The industrial-grade bottom was not an afterthought, built to withstand years of abrasion.]]>
For assured Safety, Health Protection, and Disease Avoidance.
Adjustable Water Flow: Before installing, remove filter screen and preset the desired water flow by inserting the appropriate flow control orifice. Use without an orifice for under 10 psi pressure; use the large hole orifice for 10-60 psi pressure; use small hole orifice if over 60 psi pressure.
Animal Training: Simply remove all available water, then show the installed Water Nipple to the animal(s) by moving the nipple control and letting water trickle out. Most animals will immediately start sniffing, nuzzling and licking the hollow water-filled nipple control and learn to drink from it. If not, wait until thirsty and demonstrate again. During the waiting period leave the nipple loosely attached so water will seep past the threads and slowly drip. The dripping water will attract the animal(s) back to the Nipple for self-training. Tighten securely when training is assured.]]>
![]() | Care Instructions for Bizzy Beds |
Innovation and Animal protection is a driving force at Mud River. Our pursuit of superior product performance will only enhance the Human and Animal relationship. Keeping with our quest for your dog's well-being, we have loaded our kennel covers with a wealth of health benefits. The chosen material is a 2 ply infused 1200D that has a Water-Resistant coating for protection in foul and unpredictable weather. Worry not -- when the mercury drops the microlite 3 insulation will supply thermal bliss. You will also find that we have placed a tough and tumble rubber mesh over each window to ensure air is dispensed properly and to secure fit while running 70. While the need for gear is essential you will find stash pockets in all the right locations. The industrial-grade bottom was not an afterthought, built to withstand years of abrasion.]]>
Smartwork is a system I developed over 30 years and is presented in a multimedia format to provide the premier learning tool for aspiring trainers. The three books, Smartwork for Retrievers Volume I: Basics and Transition; Smartwork Volume II: Secrets of the Pros; and SmartFetch constitute the full system. However, to allow ease of learning and a fuller understanding of the material, we provide a growing collection of video modules of the system. Each video module offers the most detailed and graphically illustrated explanation of the steps of development for your retriever available anywhere! We include all the sequential steps and tips you'll need to do your own training with your dog and develop him or her to the highest level you desire. In addition, in future video productions we will be presenting even more instruction beyond that which is contained in our books. Handling, marking, practical hunting applications, and competition-based instruction are all proposed for future productions. The cost of each item has been kept at an affordable level to allow you to expand your library of information at your own pace while giving you the information you need to enjoy the pride of having done it yourself! This will continue to be our commitment to you. NOTE: Because it is important to me that my system is presented as it is intended to be used, we shoot all our own video and do all our own editing and video production. No non-dog trainers participate in this process, and that has allowed each presentation to be geared toward the trainer exclusively. No aspect of our information has been watered down, modified, or omitted because of production concerns. Every effort has been made to assure that this program is enjoyable to watch while sparing no effort to provide extensively detailed instruction. --Evan Graham]]>
* Weights listed are for quick reference only to be used when measurements are not available. | ||||
|
Chest Width (Between Front Legs) | Chest Circumference | Waist Circumference | Weight * |
Small | 2 1/2-3 1/2" | 20-28" | 17-25" | 25-45 lbs. |
Medium | 3-4" | 23-31" | 20-28" | 45-65 lbs. |
Large | 4-5" | 26-34" | 23-31" | 65-85 lbs. |
X-Large | 5-6" | 29-37" | 26-34" | 85+lbs. |
Small | fits 13-17" neck |
Medium | fits 16-20" neck |
Large | Fits 19-23" neck |
X-Large | Fits 22-26" neck |
Size | Max. Belly Girth | Length |
Small | 12.5" | 10" |
Medium | 16.5" | 13" |
Large | 20" | 16" |
X-Large | 24.5" | 18" |
| |||||
Sizes |
Width (in) |
Length (in) |
Sleeve (in) | ||
Hey, everybody. Josh Miller here from Riverstone Kennels. Here to talk to you today about the RPM walking lead in the flat material. I love this flat material because it's so comfortable in your hand, whether you're training or simply walking down the sidewalk. This material itself is waterproof, is odor resistant, and it cleans up super easy if it were to get dirty. The snap option is great for anyone that looks to snap a lead onto a collar strap and then to get it out of the way it can snap back to the o-ring in the handle, and you can simply put it over your shoulder and walk conveniently with it out of your way, whether you're in the field or out training. This lead also has versatility depending on which length you're looking for as it comes in a four, a six, and an eight-foot option. Every RPM product is handmade here in the USA. It's superior products and with everything that they have to offer-- from material, to color, to length-- these truly are made by dog handlers for dog handlers.]]>
Hey, everybody. Josh Miller here from Riverstone Kennels. Here to talk to you about the RPM walking lead with a snap. Now this lead is gonna obviously give you the ability to snap on to a collar strap and use as a normal lead. But it also adds some versatility in the round material to be able to snap that lead back to itself making it a slip lead. It gives you a number of range options in four, six, and eight feet. So no matter what type of training you're gonna do, this lead is gonna allow you to be able to get that done. This lead is also made out of a material that is waterproof, odor resistant, and cleans off simply with the washcloth. Every RPM product is handmade here in the USA. It's superior products and with everything that they have to offer from material to color to length, these truly are made by dog handlers for dog handlers.]]>
Hey everybody. Josh Miller here from Riverstone Kennels. Here to talk to you about the RPM walking lead. This walking lead is a great tool whether you're going to be out training or just taking a walk around the neighborhood. What this lead is gonna offer you is flexible ranges as far as there's a four, a six, and an eight-foot option, as well as flat and round material choices. The stop that you'll find on the lead, you can adjust to make sure that the lead doesn't open up too much if your dog is walking on a loose lead. The material that these leads are made out of is odor-resistant, waterproof, and if it does get dirty as gun dogs do, just simply take a washcloth with some soap and water, wipe it off and you're good as new. Set. Heel. Set. Heel. Every RPM product is handmade here in the USA. It's superior products and with everything that they have to offer from material to color to length, these truly are made by dog handlers for dog handlers.]]>
Hey, everybody. Josh Miller here from Riverstone Kennels. Here to talk to you today about the RPM walking lead in the flat material. I love this flat material because it's so comfortable in your hand, whether you're training or simply walking down the sidewalk. This material itself is waterproof, is odor resistant, and it cleans up super easy if it were to get dirty. The snap option is great for anyone that looks to snap a lead onto a collar strap and then to get it out of the way it can snap back to the o-ring in the handle, and you can simply put it over your shoulder and walk conveniently with it out of your way, whether you're in the field or out training. This lead also has versatility depending on which length you're looking for as it comes in a four, a six, and an eight-foot option. Every RPM product is handmade here in the USA. It's superior products and with everything that they have to offer-- from material, to color, to length-- these truly are made by dog handlers for dog handlers.]]>
Hey, everybody. Josh Miller here from Riverstone Kennels. Here to talk to you about the RPM walking lead with a snap. Now this lead is gonna obviously give you the ability to snap on to a collar strap and use as a normal lead. But it also adds some versatility in the round material to be able to snap that lead back to itself making it a slip lead. It gives you a number of range options in four, six, and eight feet. So no matter what type of training you're gonna do, this lead is gonna allow you to be able to get that done. This lead is also made out of a material that is waterproof, odor resistant, and cleans off simply with the washcloth. Every RPM product is handmade here in the USA. It's superior products and with everything that they have to offer from material to color to length, these truly are made by dog handlers for dog handlers.]]>
Hey everybody. Josh Miller here from Riverstone Kennels. Here to talk to you about the RPM walking lead. This walking lead is a great tool whether you're going to be out training or just taking a walk around the neighborhood. What this lead is gonna offer you is flexible ranges as far as there's a four, a six, and an eight-foot option, as well as flat and round material choices. The stop that you'll find on the lead, you can adjust to make sure that the lead doesn't open up too much if your dog is walking on a loose lead. The material that these leads are made out of is odor-resistant, waterproof, and if it does get dirty as gun dogs do, just simply take a washcloth with some soap and water, wipe it off and you're good as new. Set. Heel. Set. Heel. Every RPM product is handmade here in the USA. It's superior products and with everything that they have to offer from material to color to length, these truly are made by dog handlers for dog handlers.]]>
Hey, everybody. Josh Miller here from Riverstone Kennels. Here to talk to you today about the RPM walking lead in the flat material. I love this flat material because it's so comfortable in your hand, whether you're training or simply walking down the sidewalk. This material itself is waterproof, is odor resistant, and it cleans up super easy if it were to get dirty. The snap option is great for anyone that looks to snap a lead onto a collar strap and then to get it out of the way it can snap back to the o-ring in the handle, and you can simply put it over your shoulder and walk conveniently with it out of your way, whether you're in the field or out training. This lead also has versatility depending on which length you're looking for as it comes in a four, a six, and an eight-foot option. Every RPM product is handmade here in the USA. It's superior products and with everything that they have to offer-- from material, to color, to length-- these truly are made by dog handlers for dog handlers.]]>
Hey, everybody. Josh Miller here from Riverstone Kennels. Here to talk to you about the RPM walking lead with a snap. Now this lead is gonna obviously give you the ability to snap on to a collar strap and use as a normal lead. But it also adds some versatility in the round material to be able to snap that lead back to itself making it a slip lead. It gives you a number of range options in four, six, and eight feet. So no matter what type of training you're gonna do, this lead is gonna allow you to be able to get that done. This lead is also made out of a material that is waterproof, odor resistant, and cleans off simply with the washcloth. Every RPM product is handmade here in the USA. It's superior products and with everything that they have to offer from material to color to length, these truly are made by dog handlers for dog handlers.]]>
Hi, everybody. Josh Miller here from Riverstone Kennels. Here to talk to you about the handler's lead with a snap from RPM. What this lead does is really versatile product. You know, so obviously on the surface, it's a a three-foot snap lead that you can snap onto a collar strap. And it works great that way. But it also adds some versatility when you take it into the field, specifically, making it into a slip lead. Every RPM product is handmade here in the USA. It's superior products and with everything that they have to offer -- from material to color to length-- these truly are made by dog handlers for dog handlers.]]>
Boundary Wire Chart | |
Acres | Approximate Feet of Wire Needed |
1/4 | 415 |
1/3 | 480 |
1/2 | 590 |
1 | 835 |
2 | 1180 |
5 | 1870 |
10 | 2800 |
Acres | Feet of Wire Needed | Additional Wire & Flag Kits Needed |
---|---|---|
1/4 | 415 | included in system |
1/3 | 480 | included in system |
1/2 | 590 | 1 |
1 | 835 | 1 |
2 | 1180 | 2 |
5 | 1870 | 3 |
10 | 2800 | 5 |
Size | Max. Belly Girth | Length |
Small | 12.5" | 10" |
Medium | 16.5" | 13" |
Large | 20" | 16" |
X-Large | 24.5" | 18" |
In Tom Dokken's Retriever Training, America's leading trainer helps you channel your hunting dog's huge ambition so he works for you, the way you want, and does so happily. After using the time-tested methods in Tom Dokken’s Retriever Training, you’ll have a reliable retriever that:
In the summer of 1994, Rex Carr and Dave Rorem conducted a three-day retriever training seminar in Balmoral, Manitoba. The original seminar is now available on this 4 DVD set. Carr is the father of modern retriever training. The majority of retriever training methods used today were developed by Rex Carr at his California ranch. Dave Rorem, a student of Carr's, has become one of the premier retriever trainers and handlers in the sport. He has made more than 80 Field Champions with numerous national finalists and won the U.S. National Retriever Championship in 2008. This program is of great historical value to all students of the working retriever. The only video recording of Rex Carr in a seminar format. 4 DVD set.]]>
Size | Neck | Chest |
M | 22" Neck | 26" Chest |
L | 24 1/2" Neck | 28" Chest |
XL | 25" Neck | 30" Chest |
2XL | 28" Neck | 33" Chest |
Size | Neck | Chest |
M | 22" Neck | 26" Chest |
L | 24 1/2" Neck | 28" Chest |
XL | 25" Neck | 30" Chest |
2XL | 28" Neck | 33" Chest |
Size | Neck | Chest |
M | 22" Neck | 26" Chest |
L | 24 1/2" Neck | 28" Chest |
XL | 25" Neck | 30" Chest |
2XL | 28" Neck | 33" Chest |
Shop with confidence. We field test ALL the products we sell. CLICK HERE TO READ WHY...
Hey, everybody. Josh Miller here from Riverstone Kennels. Here to talk to you about the RPM Super Grip Lead. This material is very unique and it's great for, specifically if you're working in say a wet situation or a situation you might want some extra grip. I really like this as well for dogs that once in a while wanna jerk or pull at the lead. This material is gonna allow us you always have superior grip and that lead won't slip out and either give you a good jerk on the arm or potentially slip out of your hand. The six to eight-foot options also have a ring in the handle that you can snap back to it to drape it over your shoulder to get it out of the way. On top of the material being very easy to hold on to, this material is also waterproof, odor-resistant, and cleans off simply with a washcloth. Every RPM product is handmade here in the USA. It's superior products and with everything that they have to offer -- from material to color to length -- these truly are made by dog handlers for dog handlers.]]>
Hey, everybody. Josh Miller here from Riverstone Kennels. Here to talk to you about the RPM Super Grip Lead. This material is very unique and it's great for, specifically if you're working in say a wet situation or a situation you might want some extra grip. I really like this as well for dogs that once in a while wanna jerk or pull at the lead. This material is gonna allow us you always have superior grip and that lead won't slip out and either give you a good jerk on the arm or potentially slip out of your hand. The six to eight-foot options also have a ring in the handle that you can snap back to it to drape it over your shoulder to get it out of the way. On top of the material being very easy to hold on to, this material is also waterproof, odor-resistant, and cleans off simply with a washcloth. Every RPM product is handmade here in the USA. It's superior products and with everything that they have to offer -- from material to color to length -- these truly are made by dog handlers for dog handlers.]]>
Hey, everybody. Josh Miller here from Riverstone Kennels. Here to talk to you about the RPM Super Grip Lead. This material is very unique and it's great for, specifically if you're working in say a wet situation or a situation you might want some extra grip. I really like this as well for dogs that once in a while wanna jerk or pull at the lead. This material is gonna allow us you always have superior grip and that lead won't slip out and either give you a good jerk on the arm or potentially slip out of your hand. The six to eight-foot options also have a ring in the handle that you can snap back to it to drape it over your shoulder to get it out of the way. On top of the material being very easy to hold on to, this material is also waterproof, odor-resistant, and cleans off simply with a washcloth. Every RPM product is handmade here in the USA. It's superior products and with everything that they have to offer -- from material to color to length -- these truly are made by dog handlers for dog handlers.]]>
Hi, everybody. Josh Miller here from Riverstone Kennels, here to talk to you about the RPM handlers lead. Now this lead right here is one of, if not my favorite product that RPM makes. When we started using this, it was really for either hunting or hunt test type situations because it's short, it's small and convenient, and we can put it away in our pocket and it gets out of the way. But what we've used it for recently is when we send clients home with dogs that have worked on obedience, this is a great tool while working on specifically heel. That short lead provides little room for error and not let your dog get too far ahead or too far behind you. It's just a great fit. So whether you're in the field, in a competing situation, or at home working on obedience, this is a great tool all the way around. Heal. Heal. Every RPM product is handmade here in the USA. It's superior products and with everything that they have to offer -- from material, to color, to length -- these truly are made by dog handlers for dog handlers.]]>
Hi, everybody. Josh Miller here from Riverstone Kennels, here to talk to you about the RPM handlers lead. Now this lead right here is one of, if not my favorite product that RPM makes. When we started using this, it was really for either hunting or hunt test type situations because it's short, it's small and convenient, and we can put it away in our pocket and it gets out of the way. But what we've used it for recently is when we send clients home with dogs that have worked on obedience, this is a great tool while working on specifically heel. That short lead provides little room for error and not let your dog get too far ahead or too far behind you. It's just a great fit. So whether you're in the field, in a competing situation, or at home working on obedience, this is a great tool all the way around. Heal. Heal. Every RPM product is handmade here in the USA. It's superior products and with everything that they have to offer -- from material, to color, to length -- these truly are made by dog handlers for dog handlers.]]>
Hi, everybody. Josh Miller here from Riverstone Kennels, here to talk to you about the RPM handlers lead. Now this lead right here is one of, if not my favorite product that RPM makes. When we started using this, it was really for either hunting or hunt test type situations because it's short, it's small and convenient, and we can put it away in our pocket and it gets out of the way. But what we've used it for recently is when we send clients home with dogs that have worked on obedience, this is a great tool while working on specifically heel. That short lead provides little room for error and not let your dog get too far ahead or too far behind you. It's just a great fit. So whether you're in the field, in a competing situation, or at home working on obedience, this is a great tool all the way around. Heal. Heal. Every RPM product is handmade here in the USA. It's superior products and with everything that they have to offer -- from material, to color, to length -- these truly are made by dog handlers for dog handlers.]]>
Hi, everybody. Josh Miller here from Riverstone Kennels, here to talk to you about the RPM handlers lead. Now this lead right here is one of, if not my favorite product that RPM makes. When we started using this, it was really for either hunting or hunt test type situations because it's short, it's small and convenient, and we can put it away in our pocket and it gets out of the way. But what we've used it for recently is when we send clients home with dogs that have worked on obedience, this is a great tool while working on specifically heel. That short lead provides little room for error and not let your dog get too far ahead or too far behind you. It's just a great fit. So whether you're in the field, in a competing situation, or at home working on obedience, this is a great tool all the way around. Heal. Heal. Every RPM product is handmade here in the USA. It's superior products and with everything that they have to offer -- from material, to color, to length -- these truly are made by dog handlers for dog handlers.]]>
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Tips from Tim & Tom: Puppy Training It's the time of year for new puppy spring training for a lot of people. When it comes to training puppies, I know none better than Tom Dokken, owner of Oak Ridge Kennels and inventor of the Dead Fowl Trainer. I asked Tom to give us a few tips that will help train that eager-to-learn pup. --Tim Fisher, CEO / Founder, RETRIEVE HEALTH Tips from Tom Dokken: We have all seen the bumper stickers "Will hunt for food" or "Will work for food." When I think of starting to train a puppy, the second slogan-- "Will work for food" -- is the one by which I live. From seven to thirteen weeks of age is the easiest time to train your puppy. If you can get your puppy to take a treat out of your hand, you can start the training process. First, only start training with treats before your puppy's normal feeding time. This ensures your puppy will be hungry and receptive to the treats. The key to treat training is finding a treat that your puppy can't live without. For some, it will be a small kibble of the food that they normally get, but I prefer Salmon Sticks from Retrieve Health -- something about them drives my puppies crazy and makes them more responsive! Start by getting your puppy to take the treat out of your hand. Make sure to get on your knees and call your puppy's name while holding out the treat. It won't take long for your puppy to realize that your hand is the reward source, and you have now started a voice command and a visual hand stimulus. Training is best done without a lot of distractions as there are some things you just can't compete against. Now that your puppy is responding to its name and running to you for a reward, you can start to use the word "come" or "here" followed by the giving of the treat. After a few days of this drill you are ready for the "sit" command. Start the "sit" drill out with the "come" command. When your puppy gets to you, keep the treat in your fingers and raise it up so your puppy has to raise its neck up to get the treat. As you raise the treat up, slowly push your puppy's rear end to the ground with your free hand. When your puppy's rear is on the ground, give the treat. From here on out, every time you call your puppy you will only give the treat when the "sit" command is completed. If you have to continually push your puppy's rear end down before the treat, keeping doing so -- the process will go smoother with repetition. The last command will be the "down" command, which I prefer to start only after the puppy has mastered "come" and "sit." Using the Salmon Stick treats, call your puppy to you. Your puppy should come running to you and sit, expecting the treat. Take the treat and hold it on the ground between your forefinger and thumb. Your puppy will follow your hand down but don't let your puppy grab the treat, keep it held between your fingers. As your puppy is trying to get the treat, push down on your puppy's shoulders until your puppy is in a down position. The key is to release the treat only when your puppy's belly touches the ground. In little time, with proper timing and repetition, your puppy will start to follow your hand to the ground and go into the "down" position on its own. By the time your puppy is four months old you should incorporate a leash into these commands in addition to a food reward. We will soon phase out the food reward, replacing it with a positive verbal reward. These commands take little time and will build a learning base that will last a lifetime! --Tom Dokken, Oak Ridge Kennels & inventor of the Deadfowl Trainer
Healthy Skin, Coat and Heart When it comes to healthy skin, coat and heart, Omega 3, 6 and 9 are excellent sources. The Journal of Veterinary Internal Medicine found that dogs with heart failure had lower levels of Omega Fatty Acids than their healthy counterparts. The fatty acids found in fish oil are necessary for the normal function of various systems of the human, dog's and cat's body. Our pets can suffer from some of the same poor health conditions as humans. It's one thing to give a dog food that will allow them to grow and stay alive. However, like with humans, it's another thing to find the perfect balance to improve immune function, cognition, behavior and prevent cancer. Fish oil and vegetable oil for dogs has been shown to reduce the itchiness, redness, swelling and hair loss associated with those dry, raw, hairless patches that bother our pets. In some animals, fatty acids alone can decrease pruritus (itching) or inflammation to an acceptable level. The choice of a fatty acid supplement needs to be based on the specific condition you are trying to treat. For dry skin, dull coat hair, and seborrhea, supplements high in linoleic acid are recommended. For allergies and inflammations, supplements high in EPA, DHA are most effective. Deficiencies in fatty acids occur for many reasons but most likely from the overcooking and overheating of commercial dog food that destroys them. If properly prepared, improper storage or less than optimal amounts of antioxidants in dry food may result in rancidity and a subsequent deficiency in fatty acids. Fat is necessary for good dog nutrition and is important for energy, skin and coat, kidney health, heart and to keep reduce inflammation in the joints. A daily supplement of fish oil and vegetable oil is a must for any dog of any age with skin or coat problems caused by allergies. Giving fish oil to a dog fortifies them with antioxidants and traces of vitamins that occur naturally in salmon. Actual concentration of EPA in omega-3 is what's most important. Omega-3's Omega-3 fatty acids are extremely important for your dog's health -- probably the most important of the three. One major reason for this is because they tend to suppress inflammation, which is the cause of so many of the degenerative diseases that plague your dog. Your dog's body cannot make the "parent" molecule for omega-3 fatty acids, alpha linoleic acid on its own. Omega-3 is considered an "essential" fatty acid. What complicates the matter is that these omega-3's are the ones most likely lacking in your dog's dry food diet. Omega-6's Omega-6 fatty acids are also considered essential fatty acids, which means that they are essential to your dog's health but cannot be made in its body. For this reason, they must be obtained from food. As in the family of omega-3's, there's one member of the omega-6 family that plays the role of the parent (essential) fatty acid: linoleic acid (LA). Excellent sources of linoleic acid can be found in items such as fish oil and vegetable oil. Omega-9's Omega-9's are the most abundant fatty acids of all in nature. Omega-9's are found in animal fats and vegetable oils and they are needed in your dog's diet. They are not considered essential because your dog's body can make omega-9's from unsaturated fat in its body. --Tim Fisher, CEO / Founder, Retrieve Health
... an informative book with a nifty design ... Smartwork is filled with the kind of information you'd expect from a retired professional dog trainer ... laying down a good philosophy that usually gets glossed over in some books, but something that Evan puts first and foremost in his. Jake SmithFeatures include:
Managing Editor
The Reality: First of all, force fetch is more than just one thing. It is a definable process with clear goals. But within the process are several steps or phases. Those steps will be laid out later, but first, let's examine the goals.Training articles by Evan Graham. See all of Evan Graham's books and DVDs here.]]>To establish a standard for acceptable mouth habits To provide the trainer with a tool to maintain those habits To provide the trainer with a tool to assure compliance with the command to retrieve To form the foundation for impetus (momentum) Mouth habits include such important items as fetching on command, even when your dog may be distracted, moody, or any number of things that might interfere with compliance. Sure, you may get away for years without having such problems, but being smart and being lucky is not the same thing. Force fetch gives you a tool to handle this when it comes up, plus some insurance that it is less likely to come up due to this training. Along with compulsion issues we need to mention a proper hold and delivery on command. If my pheasant is punctured, I want it to be from pellets, not teeth. That actually covers some ground in all of the first three categories. --excerpt from SmartFetch
Smartwork is a system I developed over 30 years and is presented in a multimedia format to provide the premier learning tool for aspiring trainers. The three books, Smartwork for Retrievers Volume I: Basics and Transition; Smartwork Volume II: Secrets of the Pros; and SmartFetch constitute the full system. However, to allow ease of learning and a fuller understanding of the material, we provide a growing collection of video modules of the system. Each video module offers the most detailed and graphically illustrated explanation of the steps of development for your retriever available anywhere! We include all the sequential steps and tips you'll need to do your own training with your dog and develop him or her to the highest level you desire. In addition, in future video productions we will be presenting even more instruction beyond that which is contained in our books. Handling, marking, practical hunting applications, and competition-based instruction are all proposed for future productions. The cost of each item has been kept at an affordable level to allow you to expand your library of information at your own pace while giving you the information you need to enjoy the pride of having done it yourself! This will continue to be our commitment to you. NOTE: Because it is important to me that my system is presented as it is intended to be used, we shoot all our own video and do all our own editing and video production. No non-dog trainers participate in this process, and that has allowed each presentation to be geared toward the trainer exclusively. No aspect of our information has been watered down, modified, or omitted because of production concerns. Every effort has been made to assure that this program is enjoyable to watch while sparing no effort to provide extensively detailed instruction. --Evan Graham]]>
Smartwork is a system I developed over 30 years and is presented in a multimedia format to provide the premier learning tool for aspiring trainers. The three books, Smartwork for Retrievers Volume I: Basics and Transition; Smartwork Volume II: Secrets of the Pros; and SmartFetch constitute the full system. However, to allow ease of learning and a fuller understanding of the material, we provide a growing collection of video modules of the system. Each video module offers the most detailed and graphically illustrated explanation of the steps of development for your retriever available anywhere! We include all the sequential steps and tips you'll need to do your own training with your dog and develop him or her to the highest level you desire. In addition, in future video productions we will be presenting even more instruction beyond that which is contained in our books. Handling, marking, practical hunting applications, and competition-based instruction are all proposed for future productions. The cost of each item has been kept at an affordable level to allow you to expand your library of information at your own pace while giving you the information you need to enjoy the pride of having done it yourself! This will continue to be our commitment to you. NOTE: Because it is important to me that my system is presented as it is intended to be used, we shoot all our own video and do all our own editing and video production. No non-dog trainers participate in this process, and that has allowed each presentation to be geared toward the trainer exclusively. No aspect of our information has been watered down, modified, or omitted because of production concerns. Every effort has been made to assure that this program is enjoyable to watch while sparing no effort to provide extensively detailed instruction. --Evan Graham]]>
Smartwork is a system I developed over 30 years and is presented in a multimedia format to provide the premier learning tool for aspiring trainers. The three books, Smartwork for Retrievers Volume I: Basics and Transition; Smartwork Volume II: Secrets of the Pros; and SmartFetch constitute the full system. However, to allow ease of learning and a fuller understanding of the material, we provide a growing collection of video modules of the system. Each video module offers the most detailed and graphically illustrated explanation of the steps of development for your retriever available anywhere! We include all the sequential steps and tips you'll need to do your own training with your dog and develop him or her to the highest level you desire. In addition, in future video productions we will be presenting even more instruction beyond that which is contained in our books. Handling, marking, practical hunting applications, and competition-based instruction are all proposed for future productions. The cost of each item has been kept at an affordable level to allow you to expand your library of information at your own pace while giving you the information you need to enjoy the pride of having done it yourself! This will continue to be our commitment to you. NOTE: Because it is important to me that my system is presented as it is intended to be used, we shoot all our own video and do all our own editing and video production. No non-dog trainers participate in this process, and that has allowed each presentation to be geared toward the trainer exclusively. No aspect of our information has been watered down, modified, or omitted because of production concerns. Every effort has been made to assure that this program is enjoyable to watch while sparing no effort to provide extensively detailed instruction. --Evan Graham]]>
TRAINING FEATURE ARTICLES
From published articles by Evan Graham
Cause and Effect
Trouble Shooting Training Problems
By Evan Graham
Stuff happens
You love to hunt, and you may very well love to run hunt tests, and/or field trials. It's all great fun, and a wonderful challenge to train your dog for all of the pursuits you enjoy. While actually doing the work, especially under judgment, it is natural for certain aspects of your dog's training to erode. He gets excited and, well, stuff happens!
The dog that remains by your side in training now creeps 10 yards on each bird while hunting, or at a test or trial. His typically very good hearing seems to fail him when you take him to one of these events. His casting only changes his course about half as well as it does in training. And the little stinker breaks on honors! He has begun to bolt for the line as soon as you take his leash off in the holding blind. Or you let him out of the vehicle when you're out hunting and off he goes into the darkness!
If none of this sounds familiar, you are clearly not hunting enough, nor are you running tests or trials! Or, you are running a dog that takes sedatives. Or, just maybe -- you are running them smart!
You may just be running a test/trial, and then staying home to train for a week or two before competing or testing again. You may be in the tiny percentage of trainers who are wise and self-controlled enough not to overdo it. Your dog spends far more time in a controlled environment (training) compared to the amount of time he spends in an uncontrolled environment (testing/trialing or hunting), so he doesn't tend to fall apart when he is there. He tests and hunts pretty much as he trains. He's a rare dog. You are a rare human.
Or not, in which case you stand in need of this message on how to keep a balance sufficient to maintain a fundamentally sound dog. That is the goal; to maintain a fundamentally sound dog -- a balanced dog.
Make It Count!
This article is as much devoted to understanding how humans work, as it is to knowing how dogs work. When you observe a dog with training problems, you are seeing symptoms that were almost certainly created directly, or indirectly, by a human. Any experienced pro can tell you this. We mean well, but we get caught up in how much fun the dogs are and how much fun we have hunting and testing them. We also have limitations, like available time or facilities.
When you're sick, your body sends you messages. You have pain. You feel lousy. You get weak. If you are wise, you learn to listen to your body. You take care of the problems your body says you need help with.
It's like that with your dog's training sometimes. His casting just doesn't alter his course like it used to. He creeps, or tries to switch, or he pops on marks. His skills are "sick." They are sending you messages. His once well-tuned abilities are weak. They look lousy, and are almost painful to watch! Stuff happened.
If you have a headache, and only take a pain reliever, you may very well get over it and continue in generally good health. But, if you have chronic headaches, pain relievers alone will only help temporarily, and may mask some developing health problem that you need a real cure for.
If your dog's skills have become "sick," and the problems you see are becoming chronic, you need to take measures that will cure the problem, not just mask it. But you must understand that the problems you are addressing may not be cured with some magic bullet; an easy cure-all. We are talking about behavior, and the need to modify it. How you go about it will make all the difference in its lasting effects.
Knowing how dogs acquire a habitual behavior will also help you to understand how to go about mending behavior that has become a problem. Habits, whether good or bad, don't just disappear. They are replaced with different ones. The dog that once stopped sharply to the whistle may now require fifteen or twenty steps to come to a stop. Further, he may now only crouch instead of sitting. Or, he may just stand there and look back at you. Worst of all, he may now do this chronically. That has become his habit, and it's probably driving you nuts!
You can take superficial steps in a training session that seems to have corrected a problem, and then notice that he's right back at it in no time. That is because you haven't changed his habit. You only did something one day that made it look better -- for a while. The habit remains.
Finding a Cure!
Sometimes you can work on more than one problem at a time, because a certain drill or exercise managed to provide a co-benefit or two as you addressed some specific problem. Generally, though, it's best to focus on one problem at a time. First things first.
You may have identified a problem to work on already. Take stock of the whole dog. Give him a check-up. Isn't all this medical talk invigorating? It's a very similar approach. Your doctor or nurse isn't treating your bad heart. They're treating you; the patient with a bad heart. Heart patients often have other problems that need addressing besides just their heart. Or they often have other health issues that have contributed to what has become a heart problem.
You aren't fixing a pop. You are training a dog that pops. Popping is a problem your dog has, so you want to fix it. But, have you really identified what's wrong with your dog? Is popping his only problem? If you have learned about other problems your dog has, is popping his most important one? If you don't assess all potential problems in your dog's training, how can you correctly prioritize? How do you know that what you have decided to work on first is what was most important for your dog?
If you periodically give your dog a training check-up, you may save both of you some trouble by treating the little problems before they become big ones. Some of you have heard this speech from you doctor, haven't you? It is a principle that works. It works for your health, and it works for the health of your dog's training. After all his behavior, much like ours, is driven by his emotional health status.
As a pro trainer, I had a truckload of dogs in my care, most of which were hunting dogs, as well as field trial competitors. I never had a field trial dog that didn't hunt. My job was to keep each one running at a level near his or her individual peak as much of the time as possible. Sure I had the usual health and hygiene issues that any dog owner/trainer deals with, but the lion's share of my time was spent in the field honing, or repairing their skills.
I came up with a troubleshooting check-up, which I gave my dogs monthly; the same way I was paid. That's how I knew where I was with each dog. That's how we stayed competitive running as many as twenty-six trials in a year. It involves keeping a journal of each dog's training. It tracks progress, as well as problems.
When I reported to the owners of the dogs I was training, it wasn't just a progress report. It was a health status record. I reported the state of the dog's progress, but also the state of his maintenance. That reflected more accurately what we were doing in training to advance him, and to evaluate his strengths and weaknesses. Some clients appreciated it more than others, but I required it of myself.
If your dog has been cheating exits on water blinds lately, is this a recurrent theme in his training? Has it always been so? Does it seem to you that it's new for him? Know your dog, so you can address things in the priority they deserve. Don't put a patch on a problem that has shown you that it will keep coming up through inadequate maintenance.
Hypothetical problem
"My dog is always looking for a way out of the water on water blinds, especially at a distance." There are a number of ways to look at this problem, especially when it is occurring during the running of a water blind. Of course you will want to work toward a solution at that time, as well you should. But, this problem keeps coming up, even though you feel you are dealing with it consistently. Let's see if your approach is actually dealing with a cure for the problem, or if your treatment of it is only addressing it superficially.
As your dog progresses toward the end of a water blind, the line to it takes him closer to a distant shoreline, and, as expected, he begins to gravitate toward the shore. You can really feel the influence growing because the closer he gets to the shoreline the less course correction he yields with each cast. He may even begin to be more sluggish about stopping to the whistle, even though you're certain he still hears it.
Your response to what is happening might typically be to give bigger casts away from shore; casts that are more straight "over" instead of casting the dog literally toward the fall. You may also wait a little longer to cast the dog after stopping him in order to heighten his focus. You may even stop the dog and call him toward you before re-stopping and casting him onward again. All of those things are good handling techniques that can improve the dog's relationship to the fall. They are all things a good handler does to help his or her dog to succeed at a blind.
Succeeding at blinds does not constitute a solution to shoreline suction, although upholding standards has beneficial effects. The problem you continue to see in your dog has a source. It is that source you need to address or the problem will keep continue to be a large and nagging one.
If chronic headaches are caused by a problem with a blood vessel, only repairing the blood vessel in some definitive way will solve the problem. Pain relievers will merely help you to live with the problem for a while, masking symptoms. All too soon the pain relievers won't be able to help anymore. You need a real cure.
This dog that wants out of the water at a distance will continue to want out sooner and sooner until the real problem is addressed. This dog has preconceived notions that tell him it's faster and easier to run on land, and that he still lacks any responsibility to follow a standard of performance that requires him to take direction as given, whether on land or in the water. A solution for this will be a program that replaces his current mindset with one that dictates a different standard, and promotes a changed inner desire in the dog toward compliance.
Simplify
Break the work down into a simple focused form, and repeatedly expose the dog to the standard of behavior responsible for a more consistent desirable result. If you have ever wondered why the term "drill" comes up so much in dog training these days, you have just discovered an answer. Drills offer repeated exposure to focused concepts in training. As dogs repeat any specific concept in their work they develop and deepen habits of behavior. That also makes drill work a great way to cure bad habits by literally replacing them with good habits.
Start your drills with a simple, easy standard. Short distances help to keep control of the dog low key, and allow the dog to succeed easily at the focus of the drill. Gradually extend distance to deepen the new habit by extending and deepening skill levels, like holding a straight line in water in the presence of a tempting shoreline. This can be done by running many cheating single marks with diagonal shoreline exits, and/or Tune up drills that have numerous water blinds with varying degrees of diagonal exit, at slightly increasing distances. These exercises promote a solid standard of not falling for shoreline suction. By strengthening the core skills involved, your dog can soon return to full-scale fieldwork with his new sound habits intact, requiring far fewer corrections. Further, he will have experienced so much success that his attitudes toward the standards he once resisted will have softened considerably.
This same philosophical approach can be applied to myriad other training problems. Drill work is the very essence of attrition, and tends to produce outstanding results. Good training!
On your mark -- get set -- "fetch"
Having a solid foundation of obedience in your dog, and having taught "hold", it's time to embark on the actual force fetching process.
Once you have decided on a place to do your work, and have chosen a fetch object, begin by taking a little time to relax your dog. Don't throw retrieves for him. Just walk with him a little, and keep structure (commands) to a minimum.
Choose where you'll begin, and tell him to sit. Hopefully that will be the last obedience command you'll need. If it isn't, that's okay, but keep that as a goal. Using proper technique will help with this. Look at the picture above. Note that the dog is sitting (the product of solid prior obedience training), and that the trainer has three fingers looped through the collar. That grip will go a long way toward controlling his upper body.
You must expect that your dog will squirm or try to escape pressure for a while, even though you will start with very light pressure. Initially, you may have to go ahead and remind him to sit before moving on with this session, and that is fine. Try to use your grip for control, and stay away from other commands.
It looks like the trainer is pinching, but this depicts a firm hold on the earflap. The earflap is pressed against the tang of the collar, making the tang the pressure point. The remaining fingers are looped under the collar strap to control the dog's upper body.
In the first photo the trainer's last three fingers looped under the dog's collar, leaving the thumb and forefinger free. With the thumb and forefinger hold the flap of the dog's ear so that you can control the part of the outer flap that will contact the pressure point. The pressure point is the tang on the buckle of the collar. Nylon or leather collars work fine for this, and usually have a buckle with a prominent tang. As seen above, the flap of the ear is held in a manner that allows good control.
*Note: I recommend starting with the outer earflap making contact with the pressure point because you don't know what your dog's sensitivity level is yet. If you need to do more to illicit a proper response to pressure you can simply turn the earflap over to expose the inner surface to the pressure point, rather than simply getting heavy with the actual pressure.
The idea is to turn pressure on and off like a light switch, using only the amount of pressure needed at the time. Doing it this way gives you control of amount of pressure, and allows you to keep the ear in hand, rather than releasing it. That's important!
We'll get to why it's important to keep the ear in hand a bit later. First we need to clearly cover the process and the principles that drive it. Remember, this is a force-taught (or force-conditioned) command. The mechanism needs to operate by a consistent standard to be maximally effective.
Turning off pressure
When you obedience trained your dog you taught him how to do certain things first. You guided him into a sit position and praised him for doing it. This was very passive and teaching-oriented, as it should be. When you applied pressure to formalize that training your dog understood how to comply already, and you taught him to turn off pressure through compliance. Using pressure to formalize training consistently follows that path of logic.
When you force fetch your dog he doesn't know how to turn off the pressure because he doesn't know what you want yet. That's why we need to be as fair about this as possible when we begin. It calls upon us to use very little pressure, and to guide the desired behavior carefully; showing the dog how to turn off the pressure. The teaching and the forcing all happen together.
When you begin to place pressure on the dog's ear for the first time you can, again, expect some bugging. If you do it right there will be far less of it. Doing it "right" simply means starting with minimal pressure -- reading the dog by watching his eyes and paying attention to fine details of his body language.
When you begin with pressure you may likely notice a change in the dogs eye position and general character that tells you he is uncomfortable. That's all you need to get started. You know that he would like to get rid of this annoyance, and you can show him how to do it.
Place the object in his mouth, saying, "Fetch" as you do. When you have successfully placed it in his mouth release the pressure and say, "Hold". If he holds as directed, stroke his head with no verbal praise.
Allow me to be more specific regarding the mechanics:
I am not interested in whether the dog vocalizes or not. I am not seeking such a response, although some dogs vocalize with very little pressure. I'm not worried about avoiding it, but I'm not seeking it as an indicator of sufficient pressure. What I am interested in is a clear indication that the dog is experiencing enough discomfort that he would like to turn it off. If he insists that more pressure be applied before he will yield, he will get more, until he does yield.
Be patient about turning up the heat too early in the process, though. Many dogs have a proclivity to "clam," or lock up as a fear response to pressure. This can exist in varying amounts, according to the individual dog. Most of the time you can work through it by just being patient, and showing the dog that this moderate amount of pressure can be gotten rid of by merely fetching. Resort to turning up the heat ONLY after many repetitions with more moderate pressure.
At first the bumper is placed in the dog's mouth. Begin by saying, "fetch" while applying just enough pressure to see signs of discomfort. You will likely need to place the roller or bumper in the dog's mouth at first, but when he receives it release the pressure instantly, and stroke him gently. Don't over do praise here. This may require many repetitions to condition the dog to see that having this object in his mouth is a relief, but stay with it, and do it the same way each time.
As he begins to reach for it, hold the bumper very close so he will easily meet with success. Gradually extend the distance from the dog's mouth so that he reaches for it. When he shows that he is willing to work to turn off the pressure, you know that you have gotten the ball rolling, so to speak.
*Note: Do not test the dog on this command during this process. He isn't trained yet. "Fetch" is not a standard, and it will become one much more slowly if you turn it into fight, filled with corrections for failures that resulted from a lack of education. Many people inquire of me whether they've done something wrong while force fetching, and then reveal that their dog did fine while they followed the procedure, but then they tried it without pressure, or without holding the collar, or some other critical component. Then it all fell apart! This takes time. It's conditioning.
Stay with having the dog fetch the roller/bumper from directly in front of him for numerous fetches to get him well conditioned. You should see clearly that he understands the relationship between having the roller in his mouth, and pressure being relieved. Don't move on any further with this until you see this clearly. The best indicator is when he begins to open his mouth, and not require you to place it in there on command. The next, and even clearer indicator of this is when he begins to reach for it. That is something of a milestone.
It starts with you reading your dog to see discomfort. If he is vocal, fine. If he isn't vocal, that's fine too. Just read him and condition him, and watch for these little transitions to occur that will demonstrate when he begins to "get it."
Look at this dog's expression.
This isn't a dog in agony. She's uncomfortable, and that means you have an opportunity to show her how to relieve that discomfort. You will associate that act with a verbal command (fetch), and that is what gets this entire process going. Soon your dog will be reaching out to grab the roller/bumper on command (combined with pressure). Gradually extend the distance you hold the roller from the dog to get her moving a little at a time. As you do this you will start the dog taking a few steps toward the roller.
Expand on the reaching response, again by reading your dog so you don't advance too fast. It's often a matter of baby steps in the beginning, as your dog deepens his understanding of the process of turning off pressure by fetching. They all learn at individual rates.
Excerpt from the upcoming new book, SmartFetch
Two-Sidedness
A look inside the practice of two-sided heeling
By Evan Graham
As I tend to view modern retriever training, the issue of two-sided heeling is fairly small in significance, but tends to draw no small amount of attention. It must be noted that sometimes small things can make a big difference when it matters. It's unusual to watch in practice if you haven't had much exposure to it, and it isn't as easy to understand as it may appear on the surface.
There are techniques used by many people in the handling of retrievers in all of the work they do, and in competition you'll see even more of them employed. When you're trying to be the best at something -- to win against many worthy competitors -- in difficult circumstances it calls upon you to spare no effort. The practice of running a dog from either side is just one more way to attempt to provide a dog with an edge against failure. How does it do that? To understand that we first need to examine the influences that certain elements of tests tend to have on dogs.
Diversion Pressure
"Isn't a diversion just a mark that distracts a dog during another retrieve?" I think that describes a pretty widely accepted view of what a diversion is to retrievers. But, the term diversion has a much broader meaning than that.
Diversion: 1: from divert; to turn from a course or purpose, 2: element in a test or training exercise that provides the effect of diverting the otherwise direct route of the trained retrieve
The above is a definition I took from a dictionary and expanded its meaning as to directly apply to dog work. It implies that any influence (like a crossing wind), physical factor (like a log in the path of the retrieve route), or mechanical component (like a field trial or hunt test set up in with a mark placed in a strategically influential spot) that has the effect of turning a dog from his course (the route to the fall) or purpose (the completion of the retrieve) has diverted it. All of these things have come to be called "factors," a term becoming increasingly familiar to retriever trainers.
The "Cardinal Influences"
I maintain that there are three mechanisms by which dogs are diverted in the course of a retrieve. I refer to them as the Cardinal Influences:
There are many factors that exert these influences on dogs; things like old falls, poison birds, cover, diagonal terrain features, shoreline suction, gun stations, crosswind, just to name a few. The effects that these factors exert upon dogs all fall under one or more of the above categories.
Retrievers that function at, or near their potential, do so having frequent maintenance on overcoming diversion pressure on both marked and blind retrieves. Training aside, what influence can a handler use to help a dog overcome, or at least decrease the effects of those influences?
Push vs. Pull
The terms push and pull describe the influence a handler exerts when moving "up" (forward) or "back" (backward) when the dog is at heel. A dog may also be "pulled" when the handler steps slightly away from the dog -- drawing the dog's upper torso nearer, effectively turning or influencing the dog in that direction. Here's a look at how it works.
Looking from behind the handler and dog we see a hip-pocket double mark arrangement. The shorter mark on the right will tend to have a "suction" influence; pulling the dog toward it when he is en route to the longer fall. This can occur even when that mark has already been retrieved. We train against this, but a handler can do things to promote success, as well.
"Push"
When a handler recognizes that a test, or set of circumstances may have this type of influence on the dog, he may provide a helpful influence by using "push"; stepping up or forward as the dog remains sitting in the same spot. Clearly this requires high quality obedience. Just as clearly your dog's field of vision is effectively reduced to focus on the long mark, as in this illustration. That can help to keep the dog focused on it while the marks are falling, as well.
Stepping up (push) will tend to influence a dog left when he is heeled/positioned on the left side, and right when heeled on the right. This is a more direct (or active) application of influence than stepping back (pull).
When we consider doing things like stepping up or back to provide a push or pull influence, we must remember that these are only helps to the dog in the form of nuances. They do not replace training. They only augment it in practical ways.
"Pull"
One consideration for the application of the pull influence is in this type of marking set up when you have had your dog watch the long fall go down and now want to make certain he sees the short fall clearly. While this is normally not a problem, it is some insurance against the likelihood of the dog over focusing on the long fall to step back and open up his field of vision. Both falls matter, and the long one will be of little consequence if your dog misses the short one!
There are other examples of pull being useful, such as in different multiple marking configurations. Consider this one:
While this illustration does not show a typical positioning of a dog to run this set up, it does show that a handler in the neutral position shown leaves the dog with a full field of vision to see all guns and falls. Usually, in a set up configured like this one, the dog would be on the left because the left hand mark is thrown last and falls left of the gun. If, however, the handler reads that seeing that left hand fall is not likely to cause as much of a problem as the right hand mark, it may be preferable to position the dog on the right so the handler can step up to influence the dog to see that fall as it is thrown. Doing so would tend to reduce the dogs field of vision on the left.
All of the impact of push and pull apply to moving as birds fall during a set up or test, in that they can provide assistance to your dog to see critical falls and to reduce head swinging. Again, this is not to say that it replaces training for these functions, but rather helps to support that training when you are working for top performance.
There are other considerations regarding leveraging for lines to falls, especially on blind retrieves. So many factors and influences in each set of circumstances affect such a decision that writing about it, without going into exorbitant detail, is not practical.
How much help is it?
The actual impact of this tool is different for each dog in each situation. But, if you recognize the value of push and pull on one side, you should be able to easily calculate the extra edge it could give you to have the opportunity of doing it on either side. Time and practice will do more to provide you with your own sense of how to use this little tool best.
"It feels awkward to run a dog on my right side!"
If you have held off from acquiring this skill and using it with your dog because you have become so accustomed to running him or her from your left side, remember, there was a time when that was awkward, too. Everything is new at some point. That shouldn't keep you from adding something so potentially useful to your arsenal, should it?
Swim-by for Any Dog!
By Evan Graham
Suppose you found a way to gain a high degree of control of your dog in the water. Further, imagine this method allowing you to have a real tool of communication with your dog so that he ended up not only doing better water work, but also enjoying that higher standard. The name of the tool I speak of is known by many trainers, and talked about often, but perhaps not nearly as well understood as you might think.
With all my heart, I believe there is far more incorrect information circulated about Swim-by than anything close to being correct. That is likely the main reason that so many people, even those who understand that it can be important and valuable, don't really know how to go about teaching it.
This presentation will hopefully provide a window that will provide a clearer view of one of the most valuable tools a retriever trainer can employ. We will cover how to do it step-by-step. In addition, an overview will be provided describing what swim-by is and what its purposes are.
"What is Swim-by supposed to accomplish?"
In other words, what is swim-by for? What does it provide?
Control.
Yes, control -- and even more. Control in water is widely recognized as being more difficult to attain in many ways than control on land. Water obscures many boundaries that are more easily clarified and defined on land. That makes the rules less clear and success more illusive for the kind of work we require of retrievers in hunting, hunt tests, and especially in field trials.
On a fundamental level, how can you expect to be able to cast a dog off of land at 150 yards if you can't reliably cast him off of land at 50 yards -- or 50 feet? Yes, even casting a dog into water at 50 feet requires control, and it's a fundamental skill that translates into many practical applications. Training a dog to perform a reliable swim-by can go a long way in providing the necessary control for this type of water work. But there is much more to be gained by it.
I've spoken in terms so far that may sound familiar. I want to make it clear, however, that swim-bys are not handling in the classic sense. Even when they are executed in the way a standard handling function is conducted they provide a very valuable tool, but there is yet more to be gained. It would be beneficial to have someone give you a ride in his or her car half of the way to a destination to which you would otherwise have had to walk. But why stop and walk the other half of the trip when the driver would have taken you there by car? Likewise, why settle for only a portion of the benefits of swim-by when there is so much more to be gained?
The control required to cast off of land into water, whether coming or going, calls upon the same core mental processes. The ability to readily do it provides a vehicle to teach other important water concepts.
What your dog needs to be successful at Swim-by
Strong basics, including force fetch, force to pile, and a thorough course in land tee work should be considered the minimum preparation for starting a dog on Water Tee/Swim-by. These mechanics make it easy for your dog to understand his job of going, stopping, and casting as a standard requirement.
I would strongly discourage any trainer from attempting to put a dog through this course of instruction without the previously mentioned basic education. It isn't fair to the dog to expect even mediocre results otherwise.
Clear Messages
Handling a retriever is a vehicle of directing him to a specific destination; a fallen bird. Swim-by has an entirely different goal. When you cast a dog toward a fall you're telling the dog "it's right "over" there," or "it's right "back" there." It is a language between you that can communicate effectively a message the handler desires the dog to receive and follow.
Swim-by also conveys a message, but it's one that is markedly different than the one sent when handling to a fall. When a dog is cheating a return on a water retrieve, for example, he is sending a message of his own. In the words of the late Jim Kappes, the dog is saying, "less water." It's a very simple message, isn't it? So is the message of swim-by. When your cheating dog heads to land, instead of returning straight to you in the water, he has made his statement.
Your response is a swim-by. The message you clearly send is "no," "more water!" When you command a swim-by, the command is not "over." It is "no." "No" says to a dog that what he is doing at that moment is wrong. It should always have said that, and in swim-by, it must say that in order to make your message clearly understood. Less water is wrong, and more water is right. Send clear messages.
I concede that doing swim-bys is useful and constructive, even if they are not executed in the manner I have described. I'm only suggesting that you reap the benefits of the entire tool. Take the full journey.
Teaching Swim-by
A small pond with water deep enough to require the dog to swim will do, but the ideal swim-by pond is rectangular with fairly steep banks. That will require the dog to be swimming all the time he's in the water, and its shape clearly defines all the functions and rules of the swim-by.
When you begin to put all the functions of a Water T together you will both handle, and perform swim-bys. The rules are kept uniform for the purposes of clear teaching. The square areas depict where the piles will be placed for a fully functioning water T.
To begin teaching your dog the functions of casting from end-to-end of the forcing pond I recommend sitting the dog at one end and leaving him there, walking to the opposite end, and calling him to you enthusiastically. Meet the dog exactly where you desire him to exit. As he exits the water begin is first exposure to being permitted to leave it by telling him it's okay to do so. Logically, I use the cue "okay." I say, "okay" with enthusiasm as I throw him a very short fun bumper directly opposite the direction of the water. Repeat this 4 to 6 times in one direction and then do the same thing in the opposite direction.
You should then be able to sit your dog at one end of the pond and teach him to cast to the other end by tossing a bumper to the center of it, casting him toward it, and then walking the length of the pond to the opposite end, continuing to give a cast gesture as you do. This keeps it clear for the dog that this is how it's done here.
This kind of clear teaching should make it easy for your dog to perform this clear simple act without confusion. It's clear to the dog where the water is, and where the bumper is, as well as where you are when you reach the end of the pond. By repeating this swim from one end to the other repeatedly you make clear what is expected of the dog. You also make it fun for him by rewarding each journey with a fun bumper.
This is not a procedure in which there should be major battles. It's low key, and high success in its application. The rules and the functions are clearly defined for the dog.
Finish this swim-by cast by meeting your dog at the opposite end, much as you originally taught him to do, by exiting where the other "over" pile will be. Of course you will give him an enthusiastic "okay" as he leaves the water, and toss him a short fun bumper as before.
Repeat this several times in each direction to make the function clear for your dog. Avoid the common trap of testing as you train by "trying him out" on a swim-by before you have completed all the preparatory steps. Be fair to him by giving him full instruction.
Putting it together
As you begin to put the pieces of this process together for your dog you will follow a logical progression. You have taught your dog to cast from end-to-end; right to left, and left to right. Then you taught him to do the exact same function, only while carrying a bumper in his mouth. You also taught him the release cue that tells him that he has your permission to exit the water ("okay!"). Your dog is only doing a kind of parlor trick so far because you haven't shown him any practical context for these acts yet. That will be our next step.
Because your dog has already been casting both ways, from end-to-end, so many times it should be a very small easy transition to teach him to cast from the center of the pond. We'll do that in the simplest way possible.
Using a single white plastic bumper approach the pond from the "line" side -- or point of origin. That is the starting point for performing all the functions of a water tee and swim-by. From here you will teach the dog where the back pile will be by tossing a bumper there, and sending him to it. This bumper should land on the far shore just barely on land so calling him back by water will be a non-issue. When the dog fetches the bumper you should whistle him in about halfway and give him his first real swim-by.
As he approaches the midway point of his return you say "no" while giving the cast gesture in the direction you want him to swim-by, and begin walking to that end of the pond and continuing to gesture.
*NOTE: There is a common tendency in the overwhelming majority of dogs to swim at an angle toward the far shore as they perform their first swim-bys, or to angle toward the near shoreline. Expect this and cast your dog away from the near shore as needed, or trill the come-in whistle as much as needed while continuing your swim-by cast gesture. This will teach your dog to follow the path he was originally taught it. Meet him exactly where you want him to exit, giving the "okay" to exit, followed by the usual fun bumper.
Do this several times in each direction to make the functions clear. Be sure your dog is performing these simple little swim-bys flawlessly before moving on.
Concert time!
Now that everyone knows their part and how to play it, it's time to perform a full concert! All sections will now play in harmony and your dog will come to know the practical application of this goofy game the two of you have been playing. So far your dog probably hasn't thought any of this has much to do with retrieving. It was just kind of a game you two were playing together because it had little resemblance to what you've done in the field so far, other than land T's.
I recommend using white bumpers so your dog will have no problems finding a bumper during the exercise. Note that the piles are set with space between bumpers. You don't want to encourage side issues like shopping the pile to crop up and dilute your lesson. I also suggest mowing at least the area where the piles are to be planted for the same reasons.
Running the Water Tee with Swim-by is performed much like your land tee work in that you will alternate sending your dog to the back pile without a handle, and sending him, stopping, and casting on about a 2 or 3 to 1 ratio; lining 2 or 3 times to each trip with a handle. The obvious difference is that you will not allow the dog to return by land on any retrieve.
On each cast to an over pile your dog will be given a swim-by. To get this started you will send the dog toward the back pile after 2 or 3 free passes to it, and walk the cast with him. You will meet the dog as he fetches a bumper from the pile and command the swim-by, saying, "no" as you give the cast gesture toward the water. Walk this cast the full distance to the opposite end of the pond and give the "okay" as he exits (at the other pile), followed by a short fun bumper. Then return to the line and line the back pile at least once before repeating this.
Stay with your dog for a while on his swim-bys to keep other issues from interfering with the learning process that should be strictly focused on these functions. As your dog progresses in all of these functions while needing fewer correction for error (corrections that should be made with as little pressure as possible) you will begin to walk out these casts less and less until all functions can be executed with you remaining at the line. Remaining at the line to run a finished Swim-by involves simply remaining there, and, as the dog nears the shore where he will exit with bumper in mouth, give him permission to exit by saying , "okay"; meaning it's 'okay' to land. The dog should exit there and return by land to line the back pile, and the drill continues.
With most dogs it is a sound practice to stay with the Water Tee/Swim-by for several weeks, and to train as often as possible. During that time it would also be a good idea to adhere to a training regimen that provides marks each day, preferably before and after your water work.
Having completed the Swim-by, and keeping it maintained will give you a tool like no other. Maintenance and the teaching of advanced water work will become much easier for both you and your dog. The level of control needed for successful water blinds, as well as marks, will have risen dramatically. All that, and it's fun, too! Enjoy the swim.
Dr. Jeckyll or Mr. Hyde?
By: Evan Graham
It's another great day in the sun with your dog, and perhaps a friend (or group of friends), out training again. You have your first marks of the day set up and are ready to run. You have set up a holding blind because you're not only a hunter, but a hunt tester/field trialer with your dog, and you're smart enough to know not to send opposing messages to your dog about how he should behave in the field, whether training, trialing, or testing.
You take your dog out of his kennel and air him before running because that's what you consistently do, and because it's a good practice. You also walk him to the holding blind on a leash for the same reasons. When you're ready to go up and run the marks you take your dog off lead and heel him to the line. You let him get a good look at the field before calling for the marks to be thrown, cuing him to "mark" (or whatever cue he is used to), and the fun begins.
As I view dog training, in all its variety of styles and theories, it consistently amounts to engineering our dog's habits. We know they will form habits of some sort, whether we participate or not. By participating (via training) we guide the formation of the habits we hope our dogs will live and operate by. That, of course, requires the maintenance of those habits over our dog's working career.
What's a trainer to do?
What will you do if your dog becomes Jeckyll in one place, and Hyde in another? Mr. Hyde (the bad dog) may be appearing at the test (or in the duck blind) soon enough! Dr. Jeckyll (the good dog) is good in training because he expects the standards to be upheld there. If you are to make a change that will last and be reliable it will be necessary to change your dog's expectations.
Working habits give dogs a uniform set of expectations. That's why commands and cues need to be of a consistent character. Let's use the above situation as an example.
Expectations. When you do things one way in one environment (training), and another way in another environment (testing), you send mixed messages, giving your dog reason to expect that all the stuff he has to do in training may not apply somewhere else. Dogs frequently become "trial-wise," or "test-wise" through over exposure to testing in proportion to training. They get that way even faster if you telegraph your punches, so to speak, by doing things so differently in training than in testing that you help to paint a picture for them that more clearly distinguishes the two places from each other. The same is true when we get too lax while hunting our dogs.
Here a training group is conducting a multiple honor; multiple dog/handler teams online together while taking turns retrieving a shot flyer to promote steadiness in the presence of other dogs.
It's commonplace for holding blinds to be used for contestants to wait their turn to run under judgment in field trials and in hunt tests.
If you want your dog to know how to behave in a holding blind it's only fair and reasonable to train with them on a regular basis. Also note the use of a leash as this trainer arrives at the blind with his dog.
You can, and should, support many of the same standards during hunting as in training. The problem in testing and trialing is that you really have no legal way to support your standards of training, other than to just pick your dog up and deny him the opportunity to make further mistakes. They learn very fast that the two places are very different. New sounds, sights, and mechanics; really, a different atmosphere is sensed by most dogs quite readily. Just watch a seasoned gundog on the morning of a hunt when you start loading up, and see his excitement!
What standard does your dog expect?
At this point we must look into the way we approach daily training. There are many reasons to train by a proven method, but one of the best is that it presents the work in a uniform manner. If you train by a given method you will tend to do things consistently, including discipline. Your dog should know what to expect in terms of a standard of performance and effort.
One school of thought drives training in such a way that the dogs are allowed to get into trouble, get corrected, called back, and re-run. If this is done without excessive pressure, and with clear information regarding what the right thing to do is, it can work very effectively.
Another school of thought simply communicates the right thing as the dog progresses in each exercise by being handled. Instead of allowing a switch on multiple marks to be completed, a dog in this system would simply be handled to the correct mark as an explanation of what is correct to do. The only correction is for failure to make a legitimate effort to go, stop, or come as commanded during the course of the training exercise. Such a dog is being conditioned to a standard that he will come to expect as his job; his responsibility. He has been shown how to do it in a clear and fair way, the standard being consistently upheld during re-exposure.
While I prefer the latter, it is more important that either approach be applied fairly, consistently, and with pressure applied only in amounts needed to attain compliance with known commands or standards. Each trainer must read that situation as it arises.
What standard do you expect?
When you have a pup with lots of go, and love for birds, it's easy to get over eager with him. The temptation to stretch him out too far too soon, or to "try doubles, just to see how he does," or to get too far ahead of his abilities can break down his confidence, and start bad habits needlessly.
As your dog develops you must remember what level of work he is ready to be exposed to. If he has no handling skills yet, there are things you just shouldn't be doing. If he isn't steady there is no reason to be upset when he breaks. If he hasn't had any shore breaking work you must expect him to cheat water, and so on.
Again, we see more reasons to follow a good sound method. In successfully proven methods you will see a logical progression of acquiring skills. These days the acquiring of fundamental skills is usually achieved through a program called "Basics." Basics are like a tool kit. They are the equipment your dog will need to negotiate the transition to being fully trained, and to maintain the training he is given over his career.
As your dog moves through transition he will develop deepened habits, sharpened skills, and something that will propel him into the most rapid growth in his training life; expectations. He will start to put things together in more complicated fieldwork because he now understands more than just how to comply with a spoken command, or how to turn off pressure. He will soon see enough practical application of his skills in retrieving that he will come to expect fun and rewarding things to happen through living within the standards of training you have carefully and patiently given him.
He will learn, through this process, that he has a partner in retrieving. His trainer is working toward the same goal of getting him into plenty of birds. A well-presented method provides the learning trainer with reasonable expectations of his dogs, and gives that trainer's dogs the best opportunities to become all that they are capable of. More enjoyment is just ahead for the two of you. Expect it!
Four-way/Push-pull Drill
This is merely a simplified starter version of the Wagon Wheel Lining drill, and is part of the standard Basics program. It's designed to initiate your pup to turning with you, and to acquaint him/her with the associated affects of what is called "push" and "pull."
I believe in training dogs to associate specific responses with direct commands that are clear and distinct from other commands whenever possible. I have formed, therefore, the habit of teaching my dogs to respond to "heel" by backing up, and to "here" by coming toward me (a natural response following obedience training). When I have a dog at my left side, and turn right, I command "here," which brings the dog to me -- effectively turning him right. (see diagrams)
Picture a handler at the dog's right (since the dog is heeled on the handler's left). The dog's rear end should remain on the ground, and the dog should pivot on it, bringing his upper torso toward the handler. That requires a distinct physical movement by the handler.
Pivot the dog as you move your body into a position that will result in the dog now being lined up for the next bumper in the drill. The effect of drawing the dog toward you, as each of you turns right, is called "pull," and is an indirect influence compared to "push."
Starting in the original position, with the dog still at the handler's left, you would command "heel," and move your body so that the dog can pivot from his front feet and shoulders -- bringing his rear end toward you (backing up) into the heel position -- resulting in a left turn.
*Note: Look closely at the dog's position in each diagram. Two things should be obvious:
Those two things will happen only if the handler is willing to move his/her body in a manner that assures it. When the dog has been turned left in this scenario, the handler has remained in close physical proximity to the dog and can affect a "push" to attain the movement when the dog may resist it. This isn't done by physically touching the dog, but rather occurs by simply being close enough to exert that effect when turning. Dogs have sense of personal space much like humans do, although they aren't usually as fussy about it!
The drill proceeds with the handler rotating from bumper-to-bumper, having the dog retrieve each one he is positioned for, and alternating left and right turns. I suggest doing all left turns in one complete cycle, then all right turns -- each cycle having the dog retrieve a bumper with each turn, and tossing it back out to its spot.
Soon you can alternate right and left turns to tune up that aspect of your dog's obedience. As the dog becomes sharper at turning and lining, the drill can evolve into a full eight-bumper Wagon Wheel lining drill. I won't go into that here.
A dog that is well trained to move with his handler is more responsive to direction, and is able to better execute the many tasks of a working retriever in the marsh or field. Good training!
Smartwork is a system I developed over 30 years and is presented in a multimedia format to provide the premier learning tool for aspiring trainers. The three books, Smartwork for Retrievers Volume I: Basics and Transition; Smartwork Volume II: Secrets of the Pros; and SmartFetch constitute the full system. However, to allow ease of learning and a fuller understanding of the material, we provide a growing collection of video modules of the system. Each video module offers the most detailed and graphically illustrated explanation of the steps of development for your retriever available anywhere! We include all the sequential steps and tips you'll need to do your own training with your dog and develop him or her to the highest level you desire. In addition, in future video productions we will be presenting even more instruction beyond that which is contained in our books. Handling, marking, practical hunting applications, and competition-based instruction are all proposed for future productions. The cost of each item has been kept at an affordable level to allow you to expand your library of information at your own pace while giving you the information you need to enjoy the pride of having done it yourself! This will continue to be our commitment to you. NOTE: Because it is important to me that my system is presented as it is intended to be used, we shoot all our own video and do all our own editing and video production. No non-dog trainers participate in this process, and that has allowed each presentation to be geared toward the trainer exclusively. No aspect of our information has been watered down, modified, or omitted because of production concerns. Every effort has been made to assure that this program is enjoyable to watch while sparing no effort to provide extensively detailed instruction. --Evan Graham]]>
Smartwork is a system I developed over 30 years and is presented in a multimedia format to provide the premier learning tool for aspiring trainers. The three books, Smartwork for Retrievers Volume I: Basics and Transition; Smartwork Volume II: Secrets of the Pros; and SmartFetch constitute the full system. However, to allow ease of learning and a fuller understanding of the material, we provide a growing collection of video modules of the system. Each video module offers the most detailed and graphically illustrated explanation of the steps of development for your retriever available anywhere! We include all the sequential steps and tips you'll need to do your own training with your dog and develop him or her to the highest level you desire. In addition, in future video productions we will be presenting even more instruction beyond that which is contained in our books. Handling, marking, practical hunting applications, and competition-based instruction are all proposed for future productions. The cost of each item has been kept at an affordable level to allow you to expand your library of information at your own pace while giving you the information you need to enjoy the pride of having done it yourself! This will continue to be our commitment to you. NOTE: Because it is important to me that my system is presented as it is intended to be used, we shoot all our own video and do all our own editing and video production. No non-dog trainers participate in this process, and that has allowed each presentation to be geared toward the trainer exclusively. No aspect of our information has been watered down, modified, or omitted because of production concerns. Every effort has been made to assure that this program is enjoyable to watch while sparing no effort to provide extensively detailed instruction. --Evan Graham]]>
... an informative book with a nifty design ... Smartwork is filled with the kind of information you'd expect from a retired professional dog trainer ... laying down a good philosophy that usually gets glossed over in some books, but something that Evan puts first and foremost in his. Jake SmithFeatures include:
Managing Editor
Smartwork is a system I developed over 30 years and is presented in a multimedia format to provide the premier learning tool for aspiring trainers. The three books, Smartwork for Retrievers Volume I: Basics and Transition; Smartwork Volume II: Secrets of the Pros; and SmartFetch constitute the full system. However, to allow ease of learning and a fuller understanding of the material, we provide a growing collection of video modules of the system. Each video module offers the most detailed and graphically illustrated explanation of the steps of development for your retriever available anywhere! We include all the sequential steps and tips you'll need to do your own training with your dog and develop him or her to the highest level you desire. In addition, in future video productions we will be presenting even more instruction beyond that which is contained in our books. Handling, marking, practical hunting applications, and competition-based instruction are all proposed for future productions. The cost of each item has been kept at an affordable level to allow you to expand your library of information at your own pace while giving you the information you need to enjoy the pride of having done it yourself! This will continue to be our commitment to you. NOTE: Because it is important to me that my system is presented as it is intended to be used, we shoot all our own video and do all our own editing and video production. No non-dog trainers participate in this process, and that has allowed each presentation to be geared toward the trainer exclusively. No aspect of our information has been watered down, modified, or omitted because of production concerns. Every effort has been made to assure that this program is enjoyable to watch while sparing no effort to provide extensively detailed instruction. --Evan Graham]]>
Smartwork is a system I developed over 30 years and is presented in a multimedia format to provide the premier learning tool for aspiring trainers. The three books, Smartwork for Retrievers Volume I: Basics and Transition; Smartwork Volume II: Secrets of the Pros; and SmartFetch constitute the full system. However, to allow ease of learning and a fuller understanding of the material, we provide a growing collection of video modules of the system. Each video module offers the most detailed and graphically illustrated explanation of the steps of development for your retriever available anywhere! We include all the sequential steps and tips you'll need to do your own training with your dog and develop him or her to the highest level you desire. In addition, in future video productions we will be presenting even more instruction beyond that which is contained in our books. Handling, marking, practical hunting applications, and competition-based instruction are all proposed for future productions. The cost of each item has been kept at an affordable level to allow you to expand your library of information at your own pace while giving you the information you need to enjoy the pride of having done it yourself! This will continue to be our commitment to you. NOTE: Because it is important to me that my system is presented as it is intended to be used, we shoot all our own video and do all our own editing and video production. No non-dog trainers participate in this process, and that has allowed each presentation to be geared toward the trainer exclusively. No aspect of our information has been watered down, modified, or omitted because of production concerns. Every effort has been made to assure that this program is enjoyable to watch while sparing no effort to provide extensively detailed instruction. --Evan Graham]]>
Smartwork is a system I developed over 30 years and is presented in a multimedia format to provide the premier learning tool for aspiring trainers. The three books, Smartwork for Retrievers Volume I: Basics and Transition; Smartwork Volume II: Secrets of the Pros; and SmartFetch constitute the full system. However, to allow ease of learning and a fuller understanding of the material, we provide a growing collection of video modules of the system. Each video module offers the most detailed and graphically illustrated explanation of the steps of development for your retriever available anywhere! We include all the sequential steps and tips you'll need to do your own training with your dog and develop him or her to the highest level you desire. In addition, in future video productions we will be presenting even more instruction beyond that which is contained in our books. Handling, marking, practical hunting applications, and competition-based instruction are all proposed for future productions. The cost of each item has been kept at an affordable level to allow you to expand your library of information at your own pace while giving you the information you need to enjoy the pride of having done it yourself! This will continue to be our commitment to you. NOTE: Because it is important to me that my system is presented as it is intended to be used, we shoot all our own video and do all our own editing and video production. No non-dog trainers participate in this process, and that has allowed each presentation to be geared toward the trainer exclusively. No aspect of our information has been watered down, modified, or omitted because of production concerns. Every effort has been made to assure that this program is enjoyable to watch while sparing no effort to provide extensively detailed instruction. --Evan Graham]]>
Smartwork is a system I developed over 30 years and is presented in a multimedia format to provide the premier learning tool for aspiring trainers. The three books, Smartwork for Retrievers Volume I: Basics and Transition; Smartwork Volume II: Secrets of the Pros; and SmartFetch constitute the full system. However, to allow ease of learning and a fuller understanding of the material, we provide a growing collection of video modules of the system. Each video module offers the most detailed and graphically illustrated explanation of the steps of development for your retriever available anywhere! We include all the sequential steps and tips you'll need to do your own training with your dog and develop him or her to the highest level you desire. In addition, in future video productions we will be presenting even more instruction beyond that which is contained in our books. Handling, marking, practical hunting applications, and competition-based instruction are all proposed for future productions. The cost of each item has been kept at an affordable level to allow you to expand your library of information at your own pace while giving you the information you need to enjoy the pride of having done it yourself! This will continue to be our commitment to you. NOTE: Because it is important to me that my system is presented as it is intended to be used, we shoot all our own video and do all our own editing and video production. No non-dog trainers participate in this process, and that has allowed each presentation to be geared toward the trainer exclusively. No aspect of our information has been watered down, modified, or omitted because of production concerns. Every effort has been made to assure that this program is enjoyable to watch while sparing no effort to provide extensively detailed instruction. --Evan Graham]]>
More from this series: Transition Phase 2; Transition Phase 3; Smartwork Transition Video Set
Chapters:
Smartwork is a system I developed over 30 years and is presented in a multimedia format to provide the premier learning tool for aspiring trainers. The three books, Smartwork for Retrievers Volume I: Basics and Transition; Smartwork Volume II: Secrets of the Pros; and SmartFetch constitute the full system. However, to allow ease of learning and a fuller understanding of the material, we provide a growing collection of video modules of the system. Each video module offers the most detailed and graphically illustrated explanation of the steps of development for your retriever available anywhere! We include all the sequential steps and tips you'll need to do your own training with your dog and develop him or her to the highest level you desire. In addition, in future video productions we will be presenting even more instruction beyond that which is contained in our books. Handling, marking, practical hunting applications, and competition-based instruction are all proposed for future productions. The cost of each item has been kept at an affordable level to allow you to expand your library of information at your own pace while giving you the information you need to enjoy the pride of having done it yourself! This will continue to be our commitment to you. NOTE: Because it is important to me that my system is presented as it is intended to be used, we shoot all our own video and do all our own editing and video production. No non-dog trainers participate in this process, and that has allowed each presentation to be geared toward the trainer exclusively. No aspect of our information has been watered down, modified, or omitted because of production concerns. Every effort has been made to assure that this program is enjoyable to watch while sparing no effort to provide extensively detailed instruction. --Evan Graham]]>
More from this series: Transition Phase 1; Transition Phase 3; Smartwork Transition Video Set
Chapters:
Smartwork is a system I developed over 30 years and is presented in a multimedia format to provide the premier learning tool for aspiring trainers. The three books, Smartwork for Retrievers Volume I: Basics and Transition; Smartwork Volume II: Secrets of the Pros; and SmartFetch constitute the full system. However, to allow ease of learning and a fuller understanding of the material, we provide a growing collection of video modules of the system. Each video module offers the most detailed and graphically illustrated explanation of the steps of development for your retriever available anywhere! We include all the sequential steps and tips you'll need to do your own training with your dog and develop him or her to the highest level you desire. In addition, in future video productions we will be presenting even more instruction beyond that which is contained in our books. Handling, marking, practical hunting applications, and competition-based instruction are all proposed for future productions. The cost of each item has been kept at an affordable level to allow you to expand your library of information at your own pace while giving you the information you need to enjoy the pride of having done it yourself! This will continue to be our commitment to you. NOTE: Because it is important to me that my system is presented as it is intended to be used, we shoot all our own video and do all our own editing and video production. No non-dog trainers participate in this process, and that has allowed each presentation to be geared toward the trainer exclusively. No aspect of our information has been watered down, modified, or omitted because of production concerns. Every effort has been made to assure that this program is enjoyable to watch while sparing no effort to provide extensively detailed instruction. --Evan Graham]]>
Smartwork is a system I developed over 30 years and is presented in a multimedia format to provide the premier learning tool for aspiring trainers. The three books, Smartwork for Retrievers Volume I: Basics and Transition; Smartwork Volume II: Secrets of the Pros; and SmartFetch constitute the full system. However, to allow ease of learning and a fuller understanding of the material, we provide a growing collection of video modules of the system. Each video module offers the most detailed and graphically illustrated explanation of the steps of development for your retriever available anywhere! We include all the sequential steps and tips you'll need to do your own training with your dog and develop him or her to the highest level you desire. In addition, in future video productions we will be presenting even more instruction beyond that which is contained in our books. Handling, marking, practical hunting applications, and competition-based instruction are all proposed for future productions. The cost of each item has been kept at an affordable level to allow you to expand your library of information at your own pace while giving you the information you need to enjoy the pride of having done it yourself! This will continue to be our commitment to you. NOTE: Because it is important to me that my system is presented as it is intended to be used, we shoot all our own video and do all our own editing and video production. No non-dog trainers participate in this process, and that has allowed each presentation to be geared toward the trainer exclusively. No aspect of our information has been watered down, modified, or omitted because of production concerns. Every effort has been made to assure that this program is enjoyable to watch while sparing no effort to provide extensively detailed instruction. --Evan Graham]]>
Smartwork is a system I developed over 30 years and is presented in a multimedia format to provide the premier learning tool for aspiring trainers. The three books, Smartwork for Retrievers Volume I: Basics and Transition; Smartwork Volume II: Secrets of the Pros; and SmartFetch constitute the full system. However, to allow ease of learning and a fuller understanding of the material, we provide a growing collection of video modules of the system. Each video module offers the most detailed and graphically illustrated explanation of the steps of development for your retriever available anywhere! We include all the sequential steps and tips you'll need to do your own training with your dog and develop him or her to the highest level you desire. In addition, in future video productions we will be presenting even more instruction beyond that which is contained in our books. Handling, marking, practical hunting applications, and competition-based instruction are all proposed for future productions. The cost of each item has been kept at an affordable level to allow you to expand your library of information at your own pace while giving you the information you need to enjoy the pride of having done it yourself! This will continue to be our commitment to you. NOTE: Because it is important to me that my system is presented as it is intended to be used, we shoot all our own video and do all our own editing and video production. No non-dog trainers participate in this process, and that has allowed each presentation to be geared toward the trainer exclusively. No aspect of our information has been watered down, modified, or omitted because of production concerns. Every effort has been made to assure that this program is enjoyable to watch while sparing no effort to provide extensively detailed instruction. --Evan Graham]]>
~MJ
Pro retriever trainer, Sac City, IA
"...an informative book with a nifty design, ...Smartwork is filled with the kind of information you'd expect from a retired professional dog trainer ...laying down a good philosophy that usually gets glossed over in some books, but something that Evan puts first and foremost in his... gets into the nuts and bolts of training, covering the vast spectrum of drills and setups and techniques your retriever really ought to master."
~JS
Managing editor, Retriever Journal]]>
... an informative book with a nifty design ... Smartwork is filled with the kind of information you'd expect from a retired professional dog trainer ... laying down a good philosophy that usually gets glossed over in some books, but something that Evan puts first and foremost in his. Jake SmithFeatures include:
Managing Editor
Smartwork is a system I developed over 30 years and is presented in a multimedia format to provide the premier learning tool for aspiring trainers. The three books, Smartwork for Retrievers Volume I: Basics and Transition; Smartwork Volume II: Secrets of the Pros; and SmartFetch constitute the full system. However, to allow ease of learning and a fuller understanding of the material, we provide a growing collection of video modules of the system. Each video module offers the most detailed and graphically illustrated explanation of the steps of development for your retriever available anywhere! We include all the sequential steps and tips you'll need to do your own training with your dog and develop him or her to the highest level you desire. In addition, in future video productions we will be presenting even more instruction beyond that which is contained in our books. Handling, marking, practical hunting applications, and competition-based instruction are all proposed for future productions. The cost of each item has been kept at an affordable level to allow you to expand your library of information at your own pace while giving you the information you need to enjoy the pride of having done it yourself! This will continue to be our commitment to you. NOTE: Because it is important to me that my system is presented as it is intended to be used, we shoot all our own video and do all our own editing and video production. No non-dog trainers participate in this process, and that has allowed each presentation to be geared toward the trainer exclusively. No aspect of our information has been watered down, modified, or omitted because of production concerns. Every effort has been made to assure that this program is enjoyable to watch while sparing no effort to provide extensively detailed instruction. --Evan Graham]]>
Boundary Wire Chart | |
Acres | Approximate Feet of Wire Needed |
1/4 | 415 |
1/3 | 480 |
1/2 | 590 |
1 | 835 |
2 | 1180 |
5 | 1870 |
10 | 2800 |
Boundary Wire Chart | |
Acres | Approximate Feet of Wire Needed |
1/4 | 415 |
1/3 | 480 |
1/2 | 590 |
1 | 835 |
2 | 1180 |
5 | 1870 |
10 | 2800 |
Boundary Wire Chart | |
Acres | Approximate Feet of Wire Needed |
1/4 | 415 |
1/3 | 480 |
1/2 | 590 |
1 | 835 |
2 | 1180 |
5 | 1870 |
10 | 2800 |
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We want Dog 1 to have Continuous Stim, Vibration, and a Preset Level of Continuous Stimulation. When you are working a dog from the training screen there are three buttons on the left side, and those are the three buttons that we've numbered here: STIM BUTTONS -- DOG 1 |
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Dog 2 is a little different. He's been trained on Tone instead of Vibration, and we like using Momentary with him, but we also want a preset level of Continuous Stimulation. STIM BUTTONS -- DOG 2 |
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Dog 3 is a little bit of a chaser so we will need a slightly different approach with him. He requires a slightly stronger level than my other dogs so I have changed his STIM RANGE from Medium to High. We're going to set his top button Rising Stimulation. We have trained him on Vibration, so we'll set his middle button for Vibration. And we're going to have Continuous on the bottom button. STIM BUTTONS -- DOG 3 |
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Dog 4 is going to be set up as Continuous Stim only and we're going to give him two presets. He has not been trained on any sort of Tone or Vibration, so we don't need either for this dog. STIM BUTTONS -- DOG 4 |
Runtime |
Update Rate |
First 10 hours |
2.5 seconds |
Next 5 hours |
10 seconds |
Next 10 hours | 25 seconds |
Total battery runtime |
25 hours |
Unit |
Cost of Unit |
Cost for additional collar |
TEK handheld with tracking only |
$499.95 |
$199.99 |
TEK handheld with tracking and training |
$699.95 |
$349.95 |
![]() | TIME INDICATOR: Displays the current localtime. |
![]() | BRIGHTNESS INDICATOR: Displays the current brightness level. |
![]() | BATTERY GAUGE: Displays the battery charge status of the Handheld Device. |
![]() | BATTERY GAUGE: Displays the battery charge status of the GPS Collar. |
![]() | UP/DOWN INDICATORS: Indicates menu choices available. Use the arrow keys to view additional menu items. |
![]() | MORE/SELECT INDICATOR: Indicates more information is available. Use the arrow keys to view additional information. |
![]() | BACK INDICATOR: Indicates lower menu level. Press the BACK button to return to the previous screen. |
![]() | TEXT ENTER/ACCEPT: Select to lock in a new text entry. |
![]() | GPS LOCK INDICATOR: Indicates the Handheld Device has a good satellite fix. |
![]() | COMPASS NEEDLE: Displays compass heading to magnetic north. |
![]() | DOG DIRECTION INDICATOR: Displays the direction your dog is traveling. |
![]() | DOG DIRECTION INDICATOR COMMUNICATION LOST: Displays if communication to the collar is lost. |
![]() | DOG STATUS INDICATOR: Indicates the location of your dog when the dog is either on point or treed. |
![]() | SCALE INDICATOR: Shows the current scale. Scale is adjustable from 100 yards to 75 miles. |
![]() | MY DOG: Indicates the current dog. color is based on the assigned collar to this dog. |
Size | CHEST GIRTH | |
X-Small Short | 20" - 24" | |
X-Small | 20" - 24" | Steve's 23lb. pointer |
Small | 24" - 27" | Steve's 25 and 28lb. pointers |
Medium | 27" - 31" | Steve's 55 and 60lb. pointers |
Large | 31" - 36" | Steve's 85lb German Shepherd |
X-Large | 36" - 42" | |
XX-Large | 42" - 47" |
Size | CHEST GIRTH | |
X-Small Short | 20" - 24" | |
X-Small | 20" - 24" | Steve's 23lb. pointer |
Small | 24" - 27" | Steve's 25 and 28lb. pointers |
Medium | 27" - 31" | Steve's 55 and 60lb. pointers |
Large | 31" - 36" | Steve's 85lb German Shepherd |
X-Large | 36" - 42" | |
XX-Large | 42" - 47" |
Collar: | Sport Dog SD 425X | DT Systems DD700 | Dogtra JustRight | Garmin SportPRO | Garmin Pro 550 | SportDog 3225 Hound Hunter | Garmin Pro Trashbreaker |
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Best For: | Best Short Range | Best Budget | Exclusively at Gun Dog Supply! | Best Overall | Longest Range | ||
Price: | $179.95 | $149.99 | $199.99 | $249.99 | $399.99 | $389.95 | $399.99 |
Range: | 500 Yards | 700 Yards | 1/2 Mile | 3/4 Mile | 1 Mile | 2 Mile | 4 Mile |
# of Dogs: | Up to 3 | Up to 3 | Up to 2 | Up to 3 | Up to 3 | Up to 6 | Up to 9 |
Stim Levels: | 24 Levels | 10 Levels | 24 Levels | 10 Levels | 21 Levels | 7 Levels | 6 Levels |
Tone?: | Yes (with 1 dog) | Tone or Vibe | Yes | Yes | Yes | Yes | Yes |
Vibrate?: | Yes (with 1 dog) | Tone or Vibe | Yes | Yes | Yes | Yes | No |
Special Features |
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Run Time: | 50-70 Hours | 40-50 Hours | 40-50 Hours | 60 Hours | 60 Hours | 40-60 Hours | 40 Hours |
Battery: | Li-ion rechargeable | Quick-charge Li-Poly collar battery & standard replaceable 9-volt transmitter battery | Quick-charge Li-Poly | Li-ion rechargeable | Li-ion rechargeable | Li-ion rechargeable | Li-ion rechargeable |
Add-Ons: | Add-On Collars | Add-On Collars>/a> & Rechargeable Battery Pack | Add-On Collars | Add-On Collars | Add-On Collars | Add-On Collars & Accessories | Add-On Collars |
Other Notes: |
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Most orders ship out via U.S. Postal Service, FedEx, or UPS the next business day after being received. Orders with personalized dog collar I.D. plates may take a little longer. We will contact you by e-mail if we have any questions regarding your order, or if there will be a significant delay in processing your order.
Free shipping on certain internet specials may NOT be shown on this copy, but WILL be reflected on your final invoice.
If you have any questions about your order, comments about our site, or anything else you think we need to know, please email me at sales@gundogsupply.com.
We appreciate your business!
Thanks,
Steve Snell
Gun Dog Supply - Customer Service
1-800-624-6378
"Training the Hunting Retriever ...a new way ...a better way ...the Wildrose Way"
Renowned trainer Mike Stewart, owner of Wildrose Kennels, along with Drake, the DU Dog, have appeared in more than 60 episodes of the Ducks Unlimited TV show "The World of Ducks" demonstrating retriever training methods. Join them and 25 other gun dogs ages 3 1/2 months to 5 years old as they present a low-force, natural program without using electronic training collars, designed for upland and waterfowl hunting retrievers, "The Gentleman's Gundog."
A complete training program in one DVD -- over 2 1/2 hours! It includes 18 lessons and 13 training diagrams from "early starts" to hand signals.
Chapters:
"Just received my copy of the video. Great job!!!! It is the best training video I have seen to date. I can't wait to use the Wildrose method on my new Wildrose pup." -- Joe C. "You will not believe the results I have been able to get with my dog since Tuesday when I received the DVD. We taught her "back" and ran a couple of memory blinds with a feather bumper for the first time today. I had no doubt that she could do it, but knowing how to do it was another story, and you have helped me to develop that. Thank you so much for your hard work in putting this DVD together. We have watched it three times since Tuesday and are taking notes, and it's like rereading the Bible -- I learn something new each time! I will be watching it over and over." -- Jeff M. "I watched the DVD yesterday, and it is fantastic. As usual, every time you do something it is top-notch. If you all are going to do something you are going to do it right. I could not believe how well thought out the content of this video was." -- Chip L.]]>
"Dave Rorem is the best student I have had. His ability to read dogs is outstanding and his handling skills are second to none." Rex Carr, 1995Dave Rorem started training gundogs in the 1970s and saw his first field trial in 1977. He won his first derby in 1979 and made his first Field Champion in 1984. Since that time, he has trained and handled seven national champions in Canada, made more than 70 field champions and had more than 50 national finalists in Canada and the U.S. Rorem credits much of his success to other trainers that he has spent time with and learned from. In his early years, he received help from Cy Sifers, Phil and Tom Berger, Roger Reopelle and D.L. Walters. Rorem spent 11 years working with his mentor, Rex Carr and credits him for the trainer and handler he is today. Rorem and Carr worked together in the Retriever Training Seminar. Handbook Chapters: Introduction: The Art and Science of Handling Retrievers
Dick LeMaster's observations of the size and shape of duck bills provide an entirely new tool for recognizing species. Dick is an unusually gifted person who has given up a lucrative business in industrial model-building to further his first love, waterfowl. His talent and enthusiasm as a display decoy carver resulted in his first book Wildlife in Wood. His experience in preserving the living qualities of ducks in wood has given Dick knowledge of form, feather arrangement, and color privy to few if any, professionals. With his acute eye and photographic memory, he has observed differences between species that have heretofore been overlooked by professionals. In addition to his bill identification technique, Dick also focuses attention on another unique field identification concept, that of local altitudinal flight stratification. His renditions of heads, wings, and ducks in flight highlight specific differences that further aid identification. All in all, the contents of this booklet represent a significant breakthrough which will prove to be a blessing to the beginning waterfowler and veteran alike. Frank C. Bellrose Wildlife Specialist, Illinois Natural History SurveyFrom the Author: This guide introduces new aids for identifying waterfowl. One identifies the species of duck in hand; the other assists in determining the species in flight. A duck in hand can be identified by the size and shape of its bill. Charts are provided for the user to match a bill in hand with the outlines of the particular species. The full size and shape of the bill is repeated on the pages for each species, along with information to solidify the selection. Juveniles of both sexes have bills that are slightly smaller, but even these will fall within the basic size and shape of the species. Color of the bill is of lesser importance because it will vary with age and season. Although positive identification is provided through this method, it should be understood that every effort should be made to identify a duck before you have it in hand. To aid in flight identification, this method introduces a new dimension -- levels (strata or layer) of flight that the various species fly in over open water, and these are divided into four distinct levels. The study and use of this dimension, coupled with flock characteristics and species markings, will aid your in-flight identification. Through artwork, I have shown only what you should focus your attention on. In flight; the relative shades formed are more apparent than distinctive color and definition. For identifying birds in hand, I have shown only heads and the area on the wing that is of the greatest importance -- all other detail is omitted to avoid confusion. Good luck, and may our paths cross many times. Richard LeMaster ]]>
One of the greatest things I ever did for the readers of Sports Afield during my editorship there was to make Jerry Robinson Gundog Editor. Today, my esteem for his prose and knowledge is still without limits. Follow Jerry Robinson and your path to glorious and golden upland gunning over a great dog will become clear. Here, in one book, you will find everything you need to save time, money, and aggravation in developing the hunting companion of a lifetime. --Lamar Underwood, former Editor in Chief, Sports Afield and Outdoor Life magazinesFinally, the book that all bird-dog trainers have been waiting for. Whether you're new to the game and are thinking about purchasing your first gundog, or are a professional trainer looking to see what others are doing in the field, this book is for you. Among other things, you'll learn how to:
Tom Dokken has many talents, the greatest of which is his ability to take your happy, untrained dog and, weeks later, return to you a trained companion that's still happy. --Ron Schara]]>
Host of Pheasants Forever and Minnesota Bound Television
Anyone who has attended one of Tom's seminars knows he is a hands-on trainer, beginning with handling your puppy on the very first day. This book provides a well-illustrated, step-by-step program to develop your pup into a willing and happy retriever. --Rick Van Etten
Editor, Gun Dog Magazine
Martha Greenlee established Piney Run Kennel in 1991. She currently lives in south-central Virginia, where she breeds and trains Brittanys, although she enjoys working all pointing breeds. She has trained and handled her dogs to wins in all-age and shooting dog championships, and many of her dogs have earned AKC Field Champion Titles. Her dog NAC/FC/AFC Piney Run Sam won the Brittany National Amateur Championship in 2000, and her dog NFC/FC/AFC Pine Run Art won the Brittany National Championship in 2011. Besides breeding and training, Martha also enjoys writing about dogs. She wrote Training with Mo: How Maurice Lindley Trains Pointing Dogs, co-authored The Brittany: Amateurs Training with Professionals, and co-edited Hunting Dogs, Field Trial Dogs, Brittanys. She has contributed stories to another anthology and written for several publications, including Field Trial Magazine and American Brittany. In 2011, she authored the eBook What's the Point.]]>
About the Author:]]>
Martha Greenlee established Piney Run Kennel in 1991. She currently lives in south-central Virginia, where she breeds and trains Brittanys, although she enjoys working all pointing breeds. She has trained and handled her dogs to wins in all-age and shooting dog championships, and many of her dogs have earned AKC Field Champion Titles. Her dog NAC/FC/AFC Piney Run Sam won the Brittany National Amateur Championship in 2000, and her dog NFC/FC/AFC Pine Run Art won the Brittany National Championship in 201. Besides breeding and training, Martha also enjoys writing about dogs. She wrote Training Tips Your Bird Dog Will Love, co-authored The Brittany: Amateurs Training with Professionals, and co-edited Hunting Dogs, Field Trial Dogs, Brittanys. She has contributed stories to another anthology and written for several publications, including Field Trial Magazine and American Brittany. In 2011, she authored What's the Point, an eBook that is also available in Kindle format.
]]>Good source of exercise and physical conditioning all year for any dog and its owner.
Good way to practice hunting methods for game birds by developing a dog's search, cooperation, retrieving, and other hunting skills.
Good approach to helping deer hunters locate trophy deer because found sheds will reveal where big bucks hang out. These same deer hunters may help shed hunters to get permission for access to private property.
Good chance to practice "bloodless hunting" for those who may not want to harvest live game animals.
Good opportunity to have an outdoors experience for little cost because no license, expensive equipment, or time-consuming training are required.
Good family activity because everyone can participate with no special skills required.
So, as you can see, hunting shed deer antlers with your dog is a good thing that anyone can do anytime and nearly anywhere. If you have a dog and the desire to hunt shed deer antlers, this handbook of training instructions should help in successful hunting. Tom Dokken
"For the last two years I have been training a Shepard for urban search and rescue. Within two weeks of using Tuf-Foot she didn't have a crack left in her paws and has not cut her feet since." -- Janet from Auburn, WA "I want you to know how much I've come to rely on Tuf-Foot for keeping my bird dogs pads and tails in good shape. There is nothing like it when it comes to toughening up a dog's feet prior to and during the hunting season. It's the only remedy I use for cut and briar wounds, and to treat those bloody tails on my English Setters." -- Jim, Peyton Ferry Farm, Bowman, GA.Sometimes called Tough Foot, toughfoot, tuff foot, tuffoot, tufffoot or Tough Feet.
SnakeArmor Vest Size | Dog Girth (inches) | Neck Size (inches) |
---|---|---|
Small | 19-23 | 12-14 |
Medium | 24-28 | 15-17 |
Large | 29-33 | 18-20 |
X-Large | 34-38 | 21-23 |
2X-Large | 39-44 | 24-26 |
SnakeArmor Vest Size | Dog Girth (inches) | Neck Size (inches) |
---|---|---|
Small | 19-23 | 12-14 |
Medium | 24-28 | 15-17 |
Large | 29-33 | 18-20 |
X-Large | 34-38 | 21-23 |
2X-Large | 39-44 | 24-26 |
SnakeArmor Vest Size | Dog Girth (inches) | Neck Size (inches) |
---|---|---|
Small | 19-23 | 12-14 |
Medium | 24-28 | 15-17 |
Large | 29-33 | 18-20 |
X-Large | 34-38 | 21-23 |
2X-Large | 39-44 | 24-26 |
SnakeArmor Vest Size | Dog Girth (inches) | Neck Size (inches) |
---|---|---|
Small | 19-23 | 12-14 |
Medium | 24-28 | 15-17 |
Large | 29-33 | 18-20 |
X-Large | 34-38 | 21-23 |
2X-Large | 39-44 | 24-26 |
SnakeArmor Neck Protector Size | Neck Size (inches) |
---|---|
Small | 12-14 |
Medium | 15-17 |
Large | 18-20 |
X-Large | 21-23 |
2X-Large | 24-26 |
EDGE RT | PATHFINDER | PATHFINDER2 | T&B DUAL 1-DOG |
EDGE RT RX | PATHFINDER RX | PATHFINDER2 RX | T&B DUAL 2-DOG |
EDGE | PATHFINDER TRX | PATHFINDER2 TRX RX | T&B DUAL TX |
EDGE RX | PATHFINDER TRX RX | PATHFINDER SE | 3500X |
PATHFINDER MINI | PATHFINDER MINI RX | PATHFINDER SE RX | 3502X |
Family-owned since 1972. Three generations of Snells. Longtime customers who stick with us. This is our life’s work.
Operators are standing by! Call dog product experts at 1-800-624-6378 to reach Paul, Drew, or Steve. No A.I. No phone trees. No sales pressure. Just real dog people with the service and support you deserve.
Rated 4.9 / 5-Stars by dog owners nationwide. We ship fast, respond fast, and fix problems fast.
Steve highlights products he personally uses. We sell 2500+ different SKUs. Only the must-haves are here. The best of the best.
Every season is testing season. We run prototypes, try new software, and keep using proven gear to make sure it’s still worth your money.
Made in the USA: Big Dawg collars, Sylmar vests, TBI bird bags, Bizzy Beds -- built by us in the USA with some imported material.
Hold on to your hat. Steve doesn't hold back. Steve shows how gear really works. Get the gist in 60 seconds, or dive deeper for step-by-step demos.
Our customers are tough on gear and honest about it. Read the good and the bad before you buy.
Buy it, try it, test it in the field for 30 days. Not right for you and your dog? Send it back for a full refund or exchange.
Family-owned since 1972. Three generations of Snells. Longtime customers who stick with us. This is our life’s work.
Operators are standing by! Call dog product experts at 1-800-624-6378 to reach Paul, Drew, or Steve. No A.I. No phone trees. No sales pressure. Just real dog people with the service and support you deserve.
Rated 4.9 / 5-Stars by dog owners nationwide. We ship fast, respond fast, and fix problems fast.
Steve highlights products he personally uses. We sell 2500+ different SKUs. Only the must-haves are here. The best of the best.
Every season is testing season. We run prototypes, try new software, and keep using proven gear to make sure it’s still worth your money.
Made in the USA: Big Dawg collars, Sylmar vests, TBI bird bags, Bizzy Beds -- built by us in the USA with some imported material.
Hold on to your hat. Steve doesn't hold back. Steve shows how gear really works. Get the gist in 60 seconds, or dive deeper for step-by-step demos.
Our customers are tough on gear and honest about it. Read the good and the bad before you buy.
Buy it, try it, test it in the field for 30 days. Not right for you and your dog? Send it back for a full refund or exchange.
]]>
Chlorine has been used in one way or another for over one hundred years as an effective yet affordable sanitizer. Chlorine used for disinfection is available in three different physical forms: solid (calcium hypochlorite), liquid (sodium hypochlorite), and gas (chlorine gas). The solid form (calcium hypochlorite -- the compound used in Wysiwash) is much less corrosive and exponentially more effective than liquid bleach (sodium hypochlorite) for reasons described below and causes less damage to agricultural produce and mechanical equipment than the other two forms. The gaseous form (chlorine gas), while effective, is quite dangerous and more complicated to use than the other two forms. Wysiwash utilizes hypochlorous acid, the most powerful active ingredient in chlorine solutions. It undergoes oxidation to affect the reproduction and metabolism of microorganisms. This results in immediate sanitization through the elimination of pathogens. Chlorine in each of its three physical forms kills microorganisms through a fairly simple chemical reaction. After chlorine is added to water, it breaks down into many different chemicals, including hypochlorous acid (HOCl) and the hypochlorite ion (OCl-). Both substances kill microorganisms and bacteria by attacking the lipids in the cell walls and destroying the enzymes and structures inside the cell, thus rendering them oxidized and harmless. The difference between hypochlorous acid and hypochlorite ions is the speed at which they oxidize. Hypochlorous acid is able to oxidize the organisms in several seconds, while the hypochlorite ion may take up to 30 minutes or longer. The levels of hypochlorous acid and hypochlorite ions vary with the solution's pH level. If the pH is too high, not enough hypochlorous acid is present and sanitization can take much longer than with a lower pH. Ideally, the level of pH in the solution should be between 7 and 8, which is typical for a water hose. Once the hypochlorous acid and hypochlorite ions are finished sanitizing, they combine naturally with another chemical in the environment, such as ammonia, or are broken down into single atoms. Both of these processes render the chlorine harmless, thus making Wysiwash completely biodegradable! For a thorough analysis of chlorination and disinfection, please refer to: Block, S.S(2000) Disinfection, Sterilization, and Preservation, 5th Edition NY: Lippincott, Williams & Wilkinscal. White, Geo Clifford (1998) Handbook of Chlorination and Alternative Disinfectants, 4th Edition NY: Van Nostrand Reinhold. WysiWash Versus Household Bleach Because of the pervasive misunderstanding and misuse of household (liquid) bleach, it is necessary to dispel two incorrect and dangerous assumptions associated with household bleach (sodium hypochlorite).ASSUMPTION ONE: Liquid bleach does not loose potency until you create a sodium hypochlorite solution. Liquid bleach is already a sodium hypochlorite solution and therefore loses its chlorine content continuously from the moment of manufacture. Most users of household bleach believe that it does not lose its strength until it is combined with water. Liquid bleach is already combined with water. In reality, users are diluting an already diluted sodium hypochlorite solution when they add water to it. Most bottles of bleach have lost HALF or more of their original chlorine content by the time of purchase! However, calcium hypochlorite, the ingredient used in Wysiwash, only loses 5% of its initial potency in eighteen months. ASSUMPTION TWO: Liquid bleach is a powerful and effective disinfectant. In reality, lye is the substance in bleach that makes bleach seem powerful because of all its negative effects. In order to stabilize the chlorine in the liquid solution, bleach manufacturers add lye to the solution, thus raising the pH of that solution to 11.5. Lye causes skin burns, noxious chloramine gas, and corrosion in equipment. Lye will kill some germs, but it requires a very long contact time, as well as a high concentration. Calcium hypochlorite, the ingredient in Wysiwash, contains no lye. For a chlorine solution to be an effective disinfectant, it must meet the chlorine demand. This is the amount of free available chlorine (FAC), often called hypochlorous acid or HOCl, needed to disinfect or oxidize organic matter before the FAC residual is achieved. If the required chlorine demand is not met, complete disinfection is not possible. As mentioned above, the strong disinfectant in chlorine is hypochlorous acid, which exists in only trace amounts when a chlorine solution has a pH level greater than 9. What mostly exists in household bleach solutions is the hypochlorite ion, which is up to 120 times less effective than hypochlorous acid as a disinfectant. Numerous studies prove this, including Kapoor, S.K., University of Illinois (1968) based on the book Disinfections and Sterilization written by G. Sykes (1965). This is why bleach has documented failures in eliminating dangerous pathogens like hepatitis and parvovirus. Again, the most effective substance found in chlorine, hypochlorous acid, barely exists in household bleach solutions because of its pH level! Wysiwash, a calcium hypochlorite solution, has a pH below 8.5, allowing for the maximum amount of hypochlorous acid, which results in a powerful sanitizer at an extremely cost-effective price. CONCLUSION Balancing the many demands placed upon businesses and consumers by the microbial world with the budgetary realities and safety concerns of today is indeed a difficult task. Fortunately, that task is now made easier with the Wysiwash system. Wysiwash, the patented chlorine delivery system for use with solid calcium hypochlorite tablets, enables anyone to deliver USDA-approved levels of active chlorine at the end of any water hose in a safe and easy-to-use manner. It is indeed rare for a product of such innovation and effectiveness to arrive on the scene without requiring specialized training, certifications, or even electricity to begin safely using it. After reading the directions, the Wysiwash user can literally pick up the unit and begin sanitizing immediately, with little or no risk to the user or the environment. Based on solid dispensing technology, Wysiwash reduces shipping costs, spillage risks, environmental pollutants, storage space requirements, and the number of hazardous materials stored in the workplace and home. Just attach the Wysiwash to any garden hose end, point, and spray to deliver the most effective and affordable sanitizer available anywhere. Wysiwash reduces cleaning times by at least half, which directly saves money for both businesses and private consumers. Finally, Wysiwash is biodegradable, so there is no need to worry about dangerous residual material that can harm the environment. It is safe. It is simple. It is unsurpassed. It is time for you to wash your concerns away and enjoy the magic of Wysiwash, the ultimate cleaning solution.
![]() |
WysiWash MSDS Sheet Download WysiWash MSDS Sheet, downloadable in .pdf format. Click here to read the WysiWash MSDS Sheet. |
Chlorine has been used in one way or another for over one hundred years as an effective yet affordable sanitizer. Chlorine used for disinfection is available in three different physical forms: solid (calcium hypochlorite), liquid (sodium hypochlorite), and gas (chlorine gas). The solid form (calcium hypochlorite -- the compound used in Wysiwash) is much less corrosive and exponentially more effective than liquid bleach (sodium hypochlorite) for reasons described below and causes less damage to agricultural produce and mechanical equipment than the other two forms. The gaseous form (chlorine gas), while effective, is quite dangerous and more complicated to use than the other two forms. Wysiwash utilizes hypochlorous acid, the most powerful active ingredient in chlorine solutions. It undergoes oxidation to affect the reproduction and metabolism of microorganisms. This results in immediate sanitization through the elimination of pathogens. Chlorine in each of its three physical forms kills microorganisms through a fairly simple chemical reaction. After chlorine is added to water, it breaks down into many different chemicals, including hypochlorous acid (HOCl) and the hypochlorite ion (OCl-). Both substances kill microorganisms and bacteria by attacking the lipids in the cell walls and destroying the enzymes and structures inside the cell, thus rendering them oxidized and harmless. The difference between hypochlorous acid and hypochlorite ions is the speed at which they oxidize. Hypochlorous acid is able to oxidize the organisms in several seconds, while the hypochlorite ion may take up to 30 minutes or longer. The levels of hypochlorous acid and hypochlorite ions vary with the solution's pH level. If the pH is too high, not enough hypochlorous acid is present and sanitization can take much longer than with a lower pH. Ideally, the level of pH in the solution should be between 7 and 8, which is typical for a water hose. Once the hypochlorous acid and hypochlorite ions are finished sanitizing, they combine naturally with another chemical in the environment, such as ammonia, or are broken down into single atoms. Both of these processes render the chlorine harmless, thus making Wysiwash completely biodegradable! For a thorough analysis of chlorination and disinfection, please refer to: Block, S.S(2000) Disinfection, Sterilization, and Preservation, 5th Edition NY: Lippincott, Williams & Wilkinscal. White, Geo Clifford (1998) Handbook of Chlorination and Alternative Disinfectants, 4th Edition NY: Van Nostrand Reinhold. WysiWash Versus Household Bleach Because of the pervasive misunderstanding and misuse of household (liquid) bleach, it is necessary to dispel two incorrect and dangerous assumptions associated with household bleach (sodium hypochlorite).ASSUMPTION ONE: Liquid bleach does not loose potency until you create a sodium hypochlorite solution. Liquid bleach is already a sodium hypochlorite solution and therefore loses its chlorine content continuously from the moment of manufacture. Most users of household bleach believe that it does not lose its strength until it is combined with water. Liquid bleach is already combined with water. In reality, users are diluting an already diluted sodium hypochlorite solution when they add water to it. Most bottles of bleach have lost HALF or more of their original chlorine content by the time of purchase! However, calcium hypochlorite, the ingredient used in Wysiwash, only loses 5% of its initial potency in eighteen months. ASSUMPTION TWO: Liquid bleach is a powerful and effective disinfectant. In reality, lye is the substance in bleach that makes bleach seem powerful because of all its negative effects. In order to stabilize the chlorine in the liquid solution, bleach manufacturers add lye to the solution, thus raising the pH of that solution to 11.5. Lye causes skin burns, noxious chloramine gas, and corrosion in equipment. Lye will kill some germs, but it requires a very long contact time, as well as a high concentration. Calcium hypochlorite, the ingredient in Wysiwash, contains no lye. For a chlorine solution to be an effective disinfectant, it must meet the chlorine demand. This is the amount of free available chlorine (FAC), often called hypochlorous acid or HOCl, needed to disinfect or oxidize organic matter before the FAC residual is achieved. If the required chlorine demand is not met, complete disinfection is not possible. As mentioned above, the strong disinfectant in chlorine is hypochlorous acid, which exists in only trace amounts when a chlorine solution has a pH level greater than 9. What mostly exists in household bleach solutions is the hypochlorite ion, which is up to 120 times less effective than hypochlorous acid as a disinfectant. Numerous studies prove this, including Kapoor, S.K., University of Illinois (1968) based on the book Disinfections and Sterilization written by G. Sykes (1965). This is why bleach has documented failures in eliminating dangerous pathogens like hepatitis and parvovirus. Again, the most effective substance found in chlorine, hypochlorous acid, barely exists in household bleach solutions because of its pH level! Wysiwash, a calcium hypochlorite solution, has a pH below 8.5, allowing for the maximum amount of hypochlorous acid, which results in a powerful sanitizer at an extremely cost-effective price. CONCLUSION Balancing the many demands placed upon businesses and consumers by the microbial world with the budgetary realities and safety concerns of today is indeed a difficult task. Fortunately, that task is now made easier with the Wysiwash system. Wysiwash, the patented chlorine delivery system for use with solid calcium hypochlorite tablets, enables anyone to deliver USDA-approved levels of active chlorine at the end of any water hose in a safe and easy-to-use manner. It is indeed rare for a product of such innovation and effectiveness to arrive on the scene without requiring specialized training, certifications, or even electricity to begin safely using it. After reading the directions, the Wysiwash user can literally pick up the unit and begin sanitizing immediately, with little or no risk to the user or the environment. Based on solid dispensing technology, Wysiwash reduces shipping costs, spillage risks, environmental pollutants, storage space requirements, and the number of hazardous materials stored in the workplace and home. Just attach the Wysiwash to any garden hose end, point, and spray to deliver the most effective and affordable sanitizer available anywhere. Wysiwash reduces cleaning times by at least half, which directly saves money for both businesses and private consumers. Finally, Wysiwash is biodegradable, so there is no need to worry about dangerous residual material that can harm the environment. It is safe. It is simple. It is unsurpassed. It is time for you to wash your concerns away and enjoy the magic of Wysiwash, the ultimate cleaning solution.
![]() |
WysiWash MSDS Sheet Download WysiWash MSDS Sheet, downloadable in .pdf format. Click here to read the WysiWash MSDS Sheet. |
Chlorine has been used in one way or another for over one hundred years as an effective yet affordable sanitizer. Chlorine used for disinfection is available in three different physical forms: solid (calcium hypochlorite), liquid (sodium hypochlorite), and gas (chlorine gas). The solid form (calcium hypochlorite -- the compound used in Wysiwash) is much less corrosive and exponentially more effective than liquid bleach (sodium hypochlorite) for reasons described below and causes less damage to agricultural produce and mechanical equipment than the other two forms. The gaseous form (chlorine gas), while effective, is quite dangerous and more complicated to use than the other two forms. Wysiwash utilizes hypochlorous acid, the most powerful active ingredient in chlorine solutions. It undergoes oxidation to affect the reproduction and metabolism of microorganisms. This results in immediate sanitization through the elimination of pathogens. Chlorine in each of its three physical forms kills microorganisms through a fairly simple chemical reaction. After chlorine is added to water, it breaks down into many different chemicals, including hypochlorous acid (HOCl) and the hypochlorite ion (OCl-). Both substances kill microorganisms and bacteria by attacking the lipids in the cell walls and destroying the enzymes and structures inside the cell, thus rendering them oxidized and harmless. The difference between hypochlorous acid and hypochlorite ions is the speed at which they oxidize. Hypochlorous acid is able to oxidize the organisms in several seconds, while the hypochlorite ion may take up to 30 minutes or longer. The levels of hypochlorous acid and hypochlorite ions vary with the solution's pH level. If the pH is too high, not enough hypochlorous acid is present and sanitization can take much longer than with a lower pH. Ideally, the level of pH in the solution should be between 7 and 8, which is typical for a water hose. Once the hypochlorous acid and hypochlorite ions are finished sanitizing, they combine naturally with another chemical in the environment, such as ammonia, or are broken down into single atoms. Both of these processes render the chlorine harmless, thus making Wysiwash completely biodegradable! For a thorough analysis of chlorination and disinfection, please refer to: Block, S.S(2000) Disinfection, Sterilization, and Preservation, 5th Edition NY: Lippincott, Williams & Wilkinscal. White, Geo Clifford (1998) Handbook of Chlorination and Alternative Disinfectants, 4th Edition NY: Van Nostrand Reinhold. WysiWash Versus Household Bleach Because of the pervasive misunderstanding and misuse of household (liquid) bleach, it is necessary to dispel two incorrect and dangerous assumptions associated with household bleach (sodium hypochlorite).ASSUMPTION ONE: Liquid bleach does not loose potency until you create a sodium hypochlorite solution. Liquid bleach is already a sodium hypochlorite solution and therefore loses its chlorine content continuously from the moment of manufacture. Most users of household bleach believe that it does not lose its strength until it is combined with water. Liquid bleach is already combined with water. In reality, users are diluting an already diluted sodium hypochlorite solution when they add water to it. Most bottles of bleach have lost HALF or more of their original chlorine content by the time of purchase! However, calcium hypochlorite, the ingredient used in Wysiwash, only loses 5% of its initial potency in eighteen months. ASSUMPTION TWO: Liquid bleach is a powerful and effective disinfectant. In reality, lye is the substance in bleach that makes bleach seem powerful because of all its negative effects. In order to stabilize the chlorine in the liquid solution, bleach manufacturers add lye to the solution, thus raising the pH of that solution to 11.5. Lye causes skin burns, noxious chloramine gas, and corrosion in equipment. Lye will kill some germs, but it requires a very long contact time, as well as a high concentration. Calcium hypochlorite, the ingredient in Wysiwash, contains no lye. For a chlorine solution to be an effective disinfectant, it must meet the chlorine demand. This is the amount of free available chlorine (FAC), often called hypochlorous acid or HOCl, needed to disinfect or oxidize organic matter before the FAC residual is achieved. If the required chlorine demand is not met, complete disinfection is not possible. As mentioned above, the strong disinfectant in chlorine is hypochlorous acid, which exists in only trace amounts when a chlorine solution has a pH level greater than 9. What mostly exists in household bleach solutions is the hypochlorite ion, which is up to 120 times less effective than hypochlorous acid as a disinfectant. Numerous studies prove this, including Kapoor, S.K., University of Illinois (1968) based on the book Disinfections and Sterilization written by G. Sykes (1965). This is why bleach has documented failures in eliminating dangerous pathogens like hepatitis and parvovirus. Again, the most effective substance found in chlorine, hypochlorous acid, barely exists in household bleach solutions because of its pH level! Wysiwash, a calcium hypochlorite solution, has a pH below 8.5, allowing for the maximum amount of hypochlorous acid, which results in a powerful sanitizer at an extremely cost-effective price. CONCLUSION Balancing the many demands placed upon businesses and consumers by the microbial world with the budgetary realities and safety concerns of today is indeed a difficult task. Fortunately, that task is now made easier with the Wysiwash system. Wysiwash, the patented chlorine delivery system for use with solid calcium hypochlorite tablets, enables anyone to deliver USDA-approved levels of active chlorine at the end of any water hose in a safe and easy-to-use manner. It is indeed rare for a product of such innovation and effectiveness to arrive on the scene without requiring specialized training, certifications, or even electricity to begin safely using it. After reading the directions, the Wysiwash user can literally pick up the unit and begin sanitizing immediately, with little or no risk to the user or the environment. Based on solid dispensing technology, Wysiwash reduces shipping costs, spillage risks, environmental pollutants, storage space requirements, and the number of hazardous materials stored in the workplace and home. Just attach the Wysiwash to any garden hose end, point, and spray to deliver the most effective and affordable sanitizer available anywhere. Wysiwash reduces cleaning times by at least half, which directly saves money for both businesses and private consumers. Finally, Wysiwash is biodegradable, so there is no need to worry about dangerous residual material that can harm the environment. It is safe. It is simple. It is unsurpassed. It is time for you to wash your concerns away and enjoy the magic of Wysiwash, the ultimate cleaning solution.
![]() |
WysiWash MSDS Sheet Download WysiWash MSDS Sheet, downloadable in .pdf format. Click here to read the WysiWash MSDS Sheet. |
Chlorine has been used in one way or another for over one hundred years as an effective yet affordable sanitizer. Chlorine used for disinfection is available in three different physical forms: solid (calcium hypochlorite), liquid (sodium hypochlorite), and gas (chlorine gas). The solid form (calcium hypochlorite -- the compound used in Wysiwash) is much less corrosive and exponentially more effective than liquid bleach (sodium hypochlorite) for reasons described below and causes less damage to agricultural produce and mechanical equipment than the other two forms. The gaseous form (chlorine gas), while effective, is quite dangerous and more complicated to use than the other two forms. Wysiwash utilizes hypochlorous acid, the most powerful active ingredient in chlorine solutions. It undergoes oxidation to affect the reproduction and metabolism of microorganisms. This results in immediate sanitization through the elimination of pathogens. Chlorine in each of its three physical forms kills microorganisms through a fairly simple chemical reaction. After chlorine is added to water, it breaks down into many different chemicals, including hypochlorous acid (HOCl) and the hypochlorite ion (OCl-). Both substances kill microorganisms and bacteria by attacking the lipids in the cell walls and destroying the enzymes and structures inside the cell, thus rendering them oxidized and harmless. The difference between hypochlorous acid and hypochlorite ions is the speed at which they oxidize. Hypochlorous acid is able to oxidize the organisms in several seconds, while the hypochlorite ion may take up to 30 minutes or longer. The levels of hypochlorous acid and hypochlorite ions vary with the solution's pH level. If the pH is too high, not enough hypochlorous acid is present and sanitization can take much longer than with a lower pH. Ideally, the level of pH in the solution should be between 7 and 8, which is typical for a water hose. Once the hypochlorous acid and hypochlorite ions are finished sanitizing, they combine naturally with another chemical in the environment, such as ammonia, or are broken down into single atoms. Both of these processes render the chlorine harmless, thus making Wysiwash completely biodegradable! For a thorough analysis of chlorination and disinfection, please refer to: Block, S.S(2000) Disinfection, Sterilization, and Preservation, 5th Edition NY: Lippincott, Williams & Wilkinscal. White, Geo Clifford (1998) Handbook of Chlorination and Alternative Disinfectants, 4th Edition NY: Van Nostrand Reinhold. WysiWash Versus Household Bleach Because of the pervasive misunderstanding and misuse of household (liquid) bleach, it is necessary to dispel two incorrect and dangerous assumptions associated with household bleach (sodium hypochlorite).ASSUMPTION ONE: Liquid bleach does not lose potency until you create a sodium hypochlorite solution. Liquid bleach is already a sodium hypochlorite solution and therefore loses its chlorine content continuously from the moment of manufacture. Most users of household bleach believe that it does not lose its strength until it is combined with water. Liquid bleach is already combined with water. In reality, users are diluting an already diluted sodium hypochlorite solution when they add water to it. Most bottles of bleach have lost HALF or more of their original chlorine content by the time of purchase! However, calcium hypochlorite, the ingredient used in Wysiwash, only loses 5% of its initial potency in eighteen months. ASSUMPTION TWO: Liquid bleach is a powerful and effective disinfectant. In reality, lye is the substance in bleach that makes bleach seem powerful because of all its negative effects. In order to stabilize the chlorine in the liquid solution, bleach manufacturers add lye to the solution, thus raising the pH of that solution to 11.5. Lye causes skin burns, noxious chloramine gas, and corrosion in equipment. Lye will kill some germs, but it requires a very long contact time, as well as a high concentration. Calcium hypochlorite, the ingredient in Wysiwash, contains no lye. For a chlorine solution to be an effective disinfectant, it must meet the chlorine demand. This is the amount of free available chlorine (FAC), often called hypochlorous acid or HOCl, needed to disinfect or oxidize organic matter before the FAC residual is achieved. If the required chlorine demand is not met, complete disinfection is not possible. As mentioned above, the strong disinfectant in chlorine is hypochlorous acid, which exists in only trace amounts when a chlorine solution has a pH level greater than 9. What mostly exists in household bleach solutions is the hypochlorite ion, which is up to 120 times less effective than hypochlorous acid as a disinfectant. Numerous studies prove this, including Kapoor, S.K., University of Illinois (1968) based on the book Disinfections and Sterilization written by G. Sykes (1965). This is why bleach has documented failures in eliminating dangerous pathogens like hepatitis and parvovirus. Again, the most effective substance found in chlorine, hypochlorous acid, barely exists in household bleach solutions because of its pH level! Wysiwash, a calcium hypochlorite solution, has a pH below 8.5, allowing for the maximum amount of hypochlorous acid, which results in a powerful sanitizer at an extremely cost-effective price. CONCLUSION Balancing the many demands placed upon businesses and consumers by the microbial world with the budgetary realities and safety concerns of today is indeed a difficult task. Fortunately, that task is now made easier with the Wysiwash system. Wysiwash, the patented chlorine delivery system for use with solid calcium hypochlorite tablets, enables anyone to deliver USDA-approved levels of active chlorine at the end of any water hose in a safe and easy-to-use manner. It is indeed rare for a product of such innovation and effectiveness to arrive on the scene without requiring specialized training, certifications, or even electricity to begin safely using it. After reading the directions, the Wysiwash user can literally pick up the unit and begin sanitizing immediately, with little or no risk to the user or the environment. Based on solid dispensing technology, Wysiwash reduces shipping costs, spillage risks, environmental pollutants, storage space requirements, and the number of hazardous materials stored in the workplace and home. Just attach the Wysiwash to any garden hose end, point, and spray to deliver the most effective and affordable sanitizer available anywhere. Wysiwash reduces cleaning times by at least half, which directly saves money for both businesses and private consumers. Finally, Wysiwash is biodegradable, so there is no need to worry about dangerous residual material that can harm the environment. It is safe. It is simple. It is unsurpassed. It is time for you to wash your concerns away and enjoy the magic of Wysiwash, the ultimate cleaning solution.
![]() |
WysiWash MSDS Sheet Download WysiWash MSDS Sheet, downloadable in .pdf format. Click here to read the WysiWash MSDS Sheet. |
Chlorine has been used in one way or another for over one hundred years as an effective yet affordable sanitizer. Chlorine used for disinfection is available in three different physical forms: solid (calcium hypochlorite), liquid (sodium hypochlorite), and gas (chlorine gas). The solid form (calcium hypochlorite -- the compound used in Wysiwash) is much less corrosive and exponentially more effective than liquid bleach (sodium hypochlorite) for reasons described below and causes less damage to agricultural produce and mechanical equipment than the other two forms. The gaseous form (chlorine gas), while effective, is quite dangerous and more complicated to use than the other two forms. Wysiwash utilizes hypochlorous acid, the most powerful active ingredient in chlorine solutions. It undergoes oxidation to affect the reproduction and metabolism of microorganisms. This results in immediate sanitization through the elimination of pathogens. Chlorine in each of its three physical forms kills microorganisms through a fairly simple chemical reaction. After chlorine is added to water, it breaks down into many different chemicals, including hypochlorous acid (HOCl) and the hypochlorite ion (OCl-). Both substances kill microorganisms and bacteria by attacking the lipids in the cell walls and destroying the enzymes and structures inside the cell, thus rendering them oxidized and harmless. The difference between hypochlorous acid and hypochlorite ions is the speed at which they oxidize. Hypochlorous acid is able to oxidize the organisms in several seconds, while the hypochlorite ion may take up to 30 minutes or longer. The levels of hypochlorous acid and hypochlorite ions vary with the solution's pH level. If the pH is too high, not enough hypochlorous acid is present and sanitization can take much longer than with a lower pH. Ideally, the level of pH in the solution should be between 7 and 8, which is typical for a water hose. Once the hypochlorous acid and hypochlorite ions are finished sanitizing, they combine naturally with another chemical in the environment, such as ammonia, or are broken down into single atoms. Both of these processes render the chlorine harmless, thus making Wysiwash completely biodegradable! For a thorough analysis of chlorination and disinfection, please refer to: Block, S.S(2000) Disinfection, Sterilization, and Preservation, 5th Edition NY: Lippincott, Williams & Wilkinscal. White, Geo Clifford (1998) Handbook of Chlorination and Alternative Disinfectants, 4th Edition NY: Van Nostrand Reinhold. WysiWash Versus Household Bleach Because of the pervasive misunderstanding and misuse of household (liquid) bleach, it is necessary to dispel two incorrect and dangerous assumptions associated with household bleach (sodium hypochlorite).ASSUMPTION ONE: Liquid bleach does not loose potency until you create a sodium hypochlorite solution. Liquid bleach is already a sodium hypochlorite solution and therefore loses its chlorine content continuously from the moment of manufacture. Most users of household bleach believe that it does not lose its strength until it is combined with water. Liquid bleach is already combined with water. In reality, users are diluting an already diluted sodium hypochlorite solution when they add water to it. Most bottles of bleach have lost HALF or more of their original chlorine content by the time of purchase! However, calcium hypochlorite, the ingredient used in Wysiwash, only loses 5% of its initial potency in eighteen months. ASSUMPTION TWO: Liquid bleach is a powerful and effective disinfectant. In reality, lye is the substance in bleach that makes bleach seem powerful because of all its negative effects. In order to stabilize the chlorine in the liquid solution, bleach manufacturers add lye to the solution, thus raising the pH of that solution to 11.5. Lye causes skin burns, noxious chloramine gas, and corrosion in equipment. Lye will kill some germs, but it requires a very long contact time, as well as a high concentration. Calcium hypochlorite, the ingredient in Wysiwash, contains no lye. For a chlorine solution to be an effective disinfectant, it must meet the chlorine demand. This is the amount of free available chlorine (FAC), often called hypochlorous acid or HOCl, needed to disinfect or oxidize organic matter before the FAC residual is achieved. If the required chlorine demand is not met, complete disinfection is not possible. As mentioned above, the strong disinfectant in chlorine is hypochlorous acid, which exists in only trace amounts when a chlorine solution has a pH level greater than 9. What mostly exists in household bleach solutions is the hypochlorite ion, which is up to 120 times less effective than hypochlorous acid as a disinfectant. Numerous studies prove this, including Kapoor, S.K., University of Illinois (1968) based on the book Disinfections and Sterilization written by G. Sykes (1965). This is why bleach has documented failures in eliminating dangerous pathogens like hepatitis and parvovirus. Again, the most effective substance found in chlorine, hypochlorous acid, barely exists in household bleach solutions because of its pH level! Wysiwash, a calcium hypochlorite solution, has a pH below 8.5, allowing for the maximum amount of hypochlorous acid, which results in a powerful sanitizer at an extremely cost-effective price. CONCLUSION Balancing the many demands placed upon businesses and consumers by the microbial world with the budgetary realities and safety concerns of today is indeed a difficult task. Fortunately, that task is now made easier with the Wysiwash system. Wysiwash, the patented chlorine delivery system for use with solid calcium hypochlorite tablets, enables anyone to deliver USDA-approved levels of active chlorine at the end of any water hose in a safe and easy-to-use manner. It is indeed rare for a product of such innovation and effectiveness to arrive on the scene without requiring specialized training, certifications, or even electricity to begin safely using it. After reading the directions, the Wysiwash user can literally pick up the unit and begin sanitizing immediately, with little or no risk to the user or the environment. Based on solid dispensing technology, Wysiwash reduces shipping costs, spillage risks, environmental pollutants, storage space requirements, and the number of hazardous materials stored in the workplace and home. Just attach the Wysiwash to any garden hose end, point, and spray to deliver the most effective and affordable sanitizer available anywhere. Wysiwash reduces cleaning times by at least half, which directly saves money for both businesses and private consumers. Finally, Wysiwash is biodegradable, so there is no need to worry about dangerous residual material that can harm the environment. It is safe. It is simple. It is unsurpassed. It is time for you to wash your concerns away and enjoy the magic of Wysiwash, the ultimate cleaning solution.
![]() |
WysiWash MSDS Sheet Download WysiWash MSDS Sheet, downloadable in .pdf format. Click here to read the WysiWash MSDS Sheet. |
Chlorine has been used in one way or another for over one hundred years as an effective yet affordable sanitizer. Chlorine used for disinfection is available in three different physical forms: solid (calcium hypochlorite), liquid (sodium hypochlorite), and gas (chlorine gas). The solid form (calcium hypochlorite -- the compound used in Wysiwash) is much less corrosive and exponentially more effective than liquid bleach (sodium hypochlorite) for reasons described below and causes less damage to agricultural produce and mechanical equipment than the other two forms. The gaseous form (chlorine gas), while effective, is quite dangerous and more complicated to use than the other two forms. Wysiwash utilizes hypochlorous acid, the most powerful active ingredient in chlorine solutions. It undergoes oxidation to affect the reproduction and metabolism of microorganisms. This results in immediate sanitization through the elimination of pathogens. Chlorine in each of its three physical forms kills microorganisms through a fairly simple chemical reaction. After chlorine is added to water, it breaks down into many different chemicals, including hypochlorous acid (HOCl) and the hypochlorite ion (OCl-). Both substances kill microorganisms and bacteria by attacking the lipids in the cell walls and destroying the enzymes and structures inside the cell, thus rendering them oxidized and harmless. The difference between hypochlorous acid and hypochlorite ions is the speed at which they oxidize. Hypochlorous acid is able to oxidize the organisms in several seconds, while the hypochlorite ion may take up to 30 minutes or longer. The levels of hypochlorous acid and hypochlorite ions vary with the solution's pH level. If the pH is too high, not enough hypochlorous acid is present and sanitization can take much longer than with a lower pH. Ideally, the level of pH in the solution should be between 7 and 8, which is typical for a water hose. Once the hypochlorous acid and hypochlorite ions are finished sanitizing, they combine naturally with another chemical in the environment, such as ammonia, or are broken down into single atoms. Both of these processes render the chlorine harmless, thus making Wysiwash completely biodegradable! For a thorough analysis of chlorination and disinfection, please refer to: Block, S.S(2000) Disinfection, Sterilization, and Preservation, 5th Edition NY: Lippincott, Williams & Wilkinscal. White, Geo Clifford (1998) Handbook of Chlorination and Alternative Disinfectants, 4th Edition NY: Van Nostrand Reinhold. WysiWash Versus Household Bleach Because of the pervasive misunderstanding and misuse of household (liquid) bleach, it is necessary to dispel two incorrect and dangerous assumptions associated with household bleach (sodium hypochlorite).ASSUMPTION ONE: Liquid bleach does not lose potency until you create a sodium hypochlorite solution. Liquid bleach is already a sodium hypochlorite solution and therefore loses its chlorine content continuously from the moment of manufacture. Most users of household bleach believe that it does not lose its strength until it is combined with water. Liquid bleach is already combined with water. In reality, users are diluting an already diluted sodium hypochlorite solution when they add water to it. Most bottles of bleach have lost HALF or more of their original chlorine content by the time of purchase! However, calcium hypochlorite, the ingredient used in Wysiwash, only loses 5% of its initial potency in eighteen months. ASSUMPTION TWO: Liquid bleach is a powerful and effective disinfectant. In reality, lye is the substance in bleach that makes bleach seem powerful because of all its negative effects. In order to stabilize the chlorine in the liquid solution, bleach manufacturers add lye to the solution, thus raising the pH of that solution to 11.5. Lye causes skin burns, noxious chloramine gas, and corrosion in equipment. Lye will kill some germs, but it requires a very long contact time, as well as a high concentration. Calcium hypochlorite, the ingredient in Wysiwash, contains no lye. For a chlorine solution to be an effective disinfectant, it must meet the chlorine demand. This is the amount of free available chlorine (FAC), often called hypochlorous acid or HOCl, needed to disinfect or oxidize organic matter before the FAC residual is achieved. If the required chlorine demand is not met, complete disinfection is not possible. As mentioned above, the strong disinfectant in chlorine is hypochlorous acid, which exists in only trace amounts when a chlorine solution has a pH level greater than 9. What mostly exists in household bleach solutions is the hypochlorite ion, which is up to 120 times less effective than hypochlorous acid as a disinfectant. Numerous studies prove this, including Kapoor, S.K., University of Illinois (1968) based on the book Disinfections and Sterilization written by G. Sykes (1965). This is why bleach has documented failures in eliminating dangerous pathogens like hepatitis and parvovirus. Again, the most effective substance found in chlorine, hypochlorous acid, barely exists in household bleach solutions because of its pH level! Wysiwash, a calcium hypochlorite solution, has a pH below 8.5, allowing for the maximum amount of hypochlorous acid, which results in a powerful sanitizer at an extremely cost-effective price. CONCLUSION Balancing the many demands placed upon businesses and consumers by the microbial world with the budgetary realities and safety concerns of today is indeed a difficult task. Fortunately, that task is now made easier with the Wysiwash system. Wysiwash, the patented chlorine delivery system for use with solid calcium hypochlorite tablets, enables anyone to deliver USDA-approved levels of active chlorine at the end of any water hose in a safe and easy-to-use manner. It is indeed rare for a product of such innovation and effectiveness to arrive on the scene without requiring specialized training, certifications, or even electricity to begin safely using it. After reading the directions, the Wysiwash user can literally pick up the unit and begin sanitizing immediately, with little or no risk to the user or the environment. Based on solid dispensing technology, Wysiwash reduces shipping costs, spillage risks, environmental pollutants, storage space requirements, and the number of hazardous materials stored in the workplace and home. Just attach the Wysiwash to any garden hose end, point, and spray to deliver the most effective and affordable sanitizer available anywhere. Wysiwash reduces cleaning times by at least half, which directly saves money for both businesses and private consumers. Finally, Wysiwash is biodegradable, so there is no need to worry about dangerous residual material that can harm the environment. It is safe. It is simple. It is unsurpassed. It is time for you to wash your concerns away and enjoy the magic of Wysiwash, the ultimate cleaning solution.
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WysiWash MSDS Sheet Download WysiWash MSDS Sheet, downloadable in .pdf format. Click here to read the WysiWash MSDS Sheet. |
Hey, everybody. Josh Miller here from Riverstone Kennels. Here to talk to you today about the RPM walking lead in the flat material. I love this flat material because it's so comfortable in your hand, whether you're training or simply walking down the sidewalk. This material itself is waterproof, is odor resistant, and it cleans up super easy if it were to get dirty. The snap option is great for anyone that looks to snap a lead onto a collar strap and then to get it out of the way it can snap back to the o-ring in the handle, and you can simply put it over your shoulder and walk conveniently with it out of your way, whether you're in the field or out training. This lead also has versatility depending on which length you're looking for as it comes in a four, a six, and an eight-foot option. Every RPM product is handmade here in the USA. It's superior products and with everything that they have to offer-- from material, to color, to length-- these truly are made by dog handlers for dog handlers.]]>
Hey everybody. Josh Miller here from Riverstone Kennels. Here to talk to you about the RPM walking lead. This walking lead is a great tool whether you're going to be out training or just taking a walk around the neighborhood. What this lead is gonna offer you is flexible ranges as far as there's a four, a six, and an eight-foot option, as well as flat and round material choices. The stop that you'll find on the lead, you can adjust to make sure that the lead doesn't open up too much if your dog is walking on a loose lead. The material that these leads are made out of is odor-resistant, waterproof, and if it does get dirty as gun dogs do, just simply take a washcloth with some soap and water, wipe it off and you're good as new. Set. Heel. Set. Heel. Every RPM product is handmade here in the USA. It's superior products and with everything that they have to offer from material to color to length, these truly are made by dog handlers for dog handlers.]]>
Hi, everybody. Josh Miller here from Riverstone Kennels. Here to talk to you about the handler's lead with a snap from RPM. What this lead does is really versatile product. You know, so obviously on the surface, it's a a three-foot snap lead that you can snap onto a collar strap. And it works great that way. But it also adds some versatility when you take it into the field, specifically, making it into a slip lead. Every RPM product is handmade here in the USA. It's superior products and with everything that they have to offer -- from material to color to length-- these truly are made by dog handlers for dog handlers.]]>