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When you blow the Silent Dog Whistle from Acme, you can hear the air going through the whistle yourself, but other than that it is practically inaudible to most humans. The pitch is adjustable and instructions on training a dog with it are included.
This is the improved, high-quality modern version of the original Acme Silent Dog Whistle invented in 1935. According to the manufacturer, this silent dog training whistle is effective up to 2 miles depending on the wind, weather, terrain, etc.
The ACME "Silent" Dog Whistle is precision-engineered to produce a range of fundamental frequencies between 5,400 Hz and 12,800 Hz. Although at this level the whistle is insignificant to human hearing, a dog, whose ears are far more sensitive to high frequencies, will instantly become more alert to the sound of this whistle than to any other, even one of louder and lower pitch.
This whistle is effective up to two miles, subject to weather conditions, and the abilities of the dog and trainer.
Determination of Note:
Always use the same note for the same command.
Screws in to raise and out to lower the frequency.
Tighten to lock selected frequency.
It is recommended that graduation #2 be used for close work, and #3 and #4 for distance.
How to Commence:
Keep your commands as short and simple as possible. Dogs' hearing is of a very wonderful nature, so much that they can hear sounds quite inaudible to the human ear. Their sense of smell is also particularly keen and acute, and the most vital of their senses. It is also believed that they can reason, although this is not recognized in a general way, and more attention is being given now to this important subject than ever before. In the following instructions, where the human voice is mentioned, the silent whistle, with a predetermined pitch already set, can be substituted for the verbal command. Your dog will readily distinguish between long, short and multiple whistle commands. This will be particularly appropriate when working over distance.
Commence training the dog not later than six months of age –- five months is a good time to start. They are full of pep and vigor then and with just that frolic of energetic puppyhood which makes training them so interesting. The following words of command fully explain themselves and should be used when training your companion: Sit, or Sit Down, Come, Come Here, Lie, Lie Down, Heel, Heel Up, Seek, Go Back, Go Round, Stop, Car, Danger, Don't Go, Fetch. Always use identically the same word or words for a given command – this is important as it is less confusing to the dog.
The Three Axioms:
The three axioms in training are kindness, perseverance, and patience. Make it a steadfast rule never to lose your temper –- endeavor to keep in mind that the dog must first understand in his own mind what it is that you require of him before he can begin to accomplish it. Do not hurry his lessons, complete one lesson before commencing another, and never beat or thrash him. Endeavor to get him to have implicit faith and trust in you; on no occasion forget to reward him for obedience. Show him by example and repetition what you require of him, and after he understands one or two lessons, he will quickly respond to succeeding ones, and then your worst trouble will be over.
Sit (Sit Down):
Press the dog's haunches into a sitting position, using the word Sit and move backward a few paces. If he rises put him back to his original position, and reward him with a tit-bit when he sits a short time. Gradually increase the time of sitting until he becomes obedient to the command.
Come (Come Here):
Give the command Come and reward him. Repeat until he becomes proficient. This is one of the easiest lessons to teach him.
Lie (Lie Down):
Press the dog gently but firmly into a prone position, making sure that his forepaws are drawn outwards, and at the same time using the word Down, withdraw the hands, and if he endeavors to rise up repeat the operation, continually using the word Down until he remains, then reward him and use such words as Good Dog, Clever Dog. Do not continue this lesson too long to commence with, and never longer than fifteen minutes. Puppies tire quickly without variety.
Heel (Heel Up):
Firstly keep a few tit-bits in your left hand jacket pocket. Call the dog by his name or use one blast of a whistle or both -– the call and then the whistle immediately after. Reward him on your left-hand side with your left hand, the idea being to have him at your left heel, thus leaving your right hand free. Never on any occasion thrash the dog for disobeying this command, otherwise, he will associate the thrashing with coming to heel.
Procure a hard rubber ball of a size suitable for the dog to carry and throw it out a short distance into growing grass where the ball will be hidden. Keep the dog by your side until you give the command Seek. Allow the dog to nose about for the ball, but don't move from your position yourself. Shortly the dog will find the ball which he will immediately start to play with or carry to his kennel. Now you must give the command to Come and gently take the ball from him. Never permit him to go off with the ball, but to deliver it into your hand without dropping it. The first time he does this reward him well. Further, he must not be allowed to seek the ball until you give him the command to do so. When he has become an expert at seeking, order him to Sit and hide the ball a short distance away (never allow him to leave his position) and give him the command to Seek. Should he appear at a loss to understand what is required, proceed to look for the ball yourself, using the word Seek occasionally. After a few lessons, he will quickly deduce what you desire of him. When teaching this lesson do not use sticks or hard substances, as these invariably result in making the dog hard-mouthed, a condition carefully to be avoided. Never allow the dog to go after or carry stones if you wish him to have good teeth.
Secure the dog's attention by showing him the ball and place it where he can see it; walk away from it, with the dog at your heel, say a distance of fifteen yards; stop and face the way you came using the command Go Back. At first, he will fail to understand the order, so commence to go back slowly yourself always speaking the words Go Back. When you arrive at the place where you left the ball, pick it up and show it to the dog, replace it and again walk forward. Repeat until the dog goes back by himself to where the ball lies, allow him to bring the ball to you and reward him well. After he has learned this lesson thoroughly, the same procedure may be taught him to Go Round, the only difference being that he goes round in a half-circle, now of the right and now on the left.
This next lesson requires a check cord: Throw the ball out and thereafter give the word to Seek. As he goes off, and when about half-way to the object, give the command Stop in a sharp and firm voice -– halting him at that distance by means of the check cord; then order him to Lie Down, retrieve the ball yourself, and repeat the procedure until the dog stops at the word of command. This lesson requires considerable repetition and frequent rewards.
Toss the ball a short distance keeping the dog at your side until you give the command Fetch, Fetch It. Do not leave your position, but have the dog bring the ball right up to your hand. When he does so reward him well. (See lesson explaining Seek).
Have the dog accompany you for a walk along a road where vehicles pass not too frequently, keeping him at your left heel. If he attempts to run after a car stop him abruptly by means of the check cord, using the word Danger. Repeat until he keeps by your side without checking.
This is a very useful command, and a lesson generally learned without difficulty. Have a friend call the dog to him, and as he starts to walk or run towards him, give the command Don't Go, giving him a tit-bit. Should the dog persist in going towards the friend, bring him back to his original position, and repeat the lesson until the dog refuses to move from your side, notwithstanding frequent coaxing and tempting.
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